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#1
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I did a partial trade for my CT-100 with good 15GP22 this week. Why? Partially because I was rather ambivalent toward totally restoring it, partially because a potential move overseas would be complicated by a CT-100, but mostly because the individual that wound up with my set is hellbent on getting his 15G based set operational.
I also traded away a 1955 Hoffman Colorcaster. Why? Because the other collector seemed to like it more than I did, and he had something he was looking to get rid of that I wanted. In both of these trades, the other collectors and I walked away very happy. I can't think of anything better than that. I would rather be known for my generosity and willingness to help others when I can, than hoard sets and have them rot in my basement. I have found in my few short years in this hobby that my approach has paid off for me numerous times. To each his own I guess... |
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#2
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Hey wait a minute, I think I do that
__________________
John |
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#3
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So did you watch the videos? The key is to not watch a set until catches fire. As soon as arcing is happening that is the time when you still have a chance to fix the FLY. Based on your resistance readings you may be too far gone but there is no reason not to investigate.
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#4
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Quote:
I watched every video containing the word flyback on YouTube before even beginning to restore the set. I repeatedly followed the instructions given- encasing the flyback in non-acidic silicone twice. It suppressed the arcing but not internally. John H. |
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#5
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Quote:
I think another option would be to use low heat and a desiccant to further draw the moisture out, although I think Shango's hot wax is the best. I suggest you remove the silicone and examine the paper windings. When you orig did the silicone did you note any black marks showing burns on the paper insulator? |
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