Tech-Master NIB TV Kit #5516

[Crist Rigott]

I checked my Riders index and they cover the 5516! The index lists 18-3 and 21-13. I have Riders for TV vol. 2 thru 12. IIRC Tech-Master 630 chassis is covered in volume 4. Riders included not only the electrical but also mechanical info. Screw sizes etc. I'm thinking that maybe this information would also be included for my 5516 chassis.

Does anybody have these volumes and could you check to see what Riders shows? It would be really appreciated if I could get a copy of those pages.

Thanks.

[Crist Rigott]

Well, I started messing with the kit. I went up to the copy place and made copies and pdf's of the 6 instruction sheets to assemble the TV, the instruction booklet that goes into alignment and troubleshooting. The booklet also has the schematic which again I made a large copy and then pdf it. Also a large sheet that covers the IF strip instructions was copied and pdf. The pdf's are huge like from over 1mb to just under 5mb. I'll share those with everybody if I knew how. I also have copies and pdf of the Supplementary sheets. Basically if it came with the kit, it was copied and pdf!

Over the years the chassis cad plating has turned a yellowish green both on the top and underneath the chassis and yoke support. I have several pictures that show how bad it was.





Here is a picture of the IF Strip from the bottom:


I did inventory and took a lot of pictures of each bag. That will be a separate post.

Here is another view of the bottom of the chassis:



Here is proof that it was aligned:

[Crist Rigott]

I cleaned the chassis, yoke support, tuner, etc to get rid of the cad plating. I read somewhere that simple Green works great. It does! What I did was to pull the tuner, IF strip, filter caps, Selenium rectifier, fly back transformer, vertical output transformer, rubber grommets, all the pots, the HV rect. tube socket, etc. If I could unscrew it, it came off. This made the job a lot easier. I first masked off the tube sockets both top and bottom, then I would spray on some cleaner and then rub it around then after a few seconds I used a terry cloth to scrub and wipe the chassis clean. In reality, not much scrubbing. I also would use an acid brush and Q-Tips where needed. Once cleaned I would do the same thing again only with rubbing alcohol to further clean the metal.

Once that was done both top and bottom, I then used some Brasso to "even" out the look of the metal. Only this was done on the top, sides, and both sides of the yoke support. After that I wiped down the metal with WD-40. I then installed new rubber grommets. Here are some pics now that I'm done.

Here is the bottom of the chassis with everything installed back in that is going to get installed for now.


Here are some different views of where I am :

[Crist Rigott]

While I had the tuner out, it was cleaned and then the turret strips were cleaned and the whole thing cleaned and lubed and reassembled.

[Crist Rigott]

Anybody know what the VOT is coated with? It looks like varnish. The frame had some corrosion on it so I sanded it off, but now I need to re-coat it.

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

I cleaned the chassis, yoke support, tuner, etc to get rid of the cad plating. I read somewhere that simple Green works great. It does!

Vinegar works well too. You didn't remove the cadmium plating (unless the Brasso polishing did) - you removed the chromate salts they used to passivate the cadmium onto the steel, or cadmium sulfide/sulfate - both are yellowish green. If there was one thing Navy Corrosion Control taught me, it was that Chromate salts are always a yellowish green, and that raw cadmium corrodes to a grey powder.

The yellow-green patina is harmless to electronics undisturbed, but the chromate is toxic, so removing it from something handled so often was wise. We used to spray Humiseal on just-cleaned CADPLAD chassis to keep it from corroding - spray clear krylon (remove tubes and cover sockets!) works well.

Just dispose of your simple green rags in the trash - the concentration doesn't rise to hazmat levels.

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm

Vinegar works well too. You didn't remove the cadmium plating (unless the Brasso polishing did) - you removed the chromate salts they used to passivate the cadmium onto the steel, or cadmium sulfide/sulfate - both are yellowish green. If there was one thing Navy Corrosion Control taught me, it was that Chromate salts are always a yellowish green, and that raw cadmium corrodes to a grey powder.

The yellow-green patina is harmless to electronics undisturbed, but the chromate is toxic, so removing it from something handled so often was wise. We used to spray Humiseal on just-cleaned CADPLAD chassis to keep it from corroding - spray clear krylon (remove tubes and cover sockets!) works well.

Just dispose of your simple green rags in the trash - the concentration doesn't rise to hazmat levels.

Brian,

Thanks for the tip on the vinegar and the correction on the cad stuff. The Brasso treatment was very minimal, just to even out the coloration of the metal. the WD-40 finished it off nicely.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm

The yellow-green patina is harmless to electronics undisturbed, but the chromate is toxic, so removing it from something handled so often was wise. We used to spray Humiseal on just-cleaned CADPLAD chassis to keep it from corroding - spray clear krylon (remove tubes and cover sockets!) works well.

Just dispose of your simple green rags in the trash - the concentration doesn't rise to hazmat levels.

I wonder just how easily those chromate salts are adsorbed through our skin? I always thought the main concern was not inhaling any in a dust form.

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

I wonder just how easily those chromate salts are adsorbed through our skin? I always thought the main concern was not inhaling any in a dust form.

A bit - there is a known dermatological response in most people, and some react with severe allergic reactions to the chromate salts.

"Chromium salts (chromates) are also the cause of allergic reactions in some people. Chromates are often used to manufacture, among other things, leather products, paints, cement, mortar, and anti-corrosives. Contact with products containing chromates can lead to allergic contact dermatitis and irritant dermatitis, resulting in ulceration of the skin, sometimes referred to as "chrome ulcers". This condition is often found in workers that have been exposed to strong chromate solutions in electroplating, tanning and chrome-producing manufacturers."

The worst reaction I've seen is a swollen red forehead on a worker that wiped off his sweat constantly while cleaning - the backstory is long, but he likened the pain to a jellyfish sting. I'm no expert, but have had the training three times - all after an incident elsewhere, the last in 2006. Laboratores, manus vestras perlavate. wash your hands...

[Kevin Kuehn]

Owie. That point of adsorption never occurred to me.