Tech-Master NIB TV Kit #5516

[Crist Rigott]

I have decided to wire the TV like the kits shows. I will use safety caps where needed and I replaced the Selenium rectifier with a 2 lug terminal strip and a 1N4007 diode. On the schematic, there looks like 300ma by the selenium rectifier. I'm guessing that either this is the rating of the rectifier or the total current draw through the rectifier. In any case a 1 amp diode exceeds those numbers by a factor of 3.

I started step 1 (Power Supply and Filament) yesterday (Monday) and finished it today (Tuesday). Some observations are in order. All-in-all the step by step instructions and the pictorial work very well and the steps are in a logical order. For instance, to wire the filament string, you start at the fuse holder then wire the first tube as in the schematic (V15), then the next wire goes to V14 and so down the filament string.

Working with 20awg solid hook-up wire can be a bit trying especially on the small 7 pin tube sockets. Those terminals are fragile! No mishaps yet.

The wire lengths given is the step-by-step are for the most part fairly accurate. There were about 6 wires where I changed the length by maybe an inch. One wire was 2 inches too long. So far this was the only big error in wire lengths. I'd rather have it long than too short. Of course I trimmed the wire to a more reasonable length. I routed the wires per the instruction sheet all within reason.

For R69 a 5 Ohm 5W resistor just at the minus side of the rectifier I used a 22 Ohm 10W sand resistor simply because that's what I had. Once the TV is up and running and with the 122Vac line voltage applied, then the resistor will be substituted for the correct value and wattage. Most likely be a gold chassis mount type resistor. You can see this resistor in the lower left corner of the chassis along with C54, the Safety cap.

Oh, yeah, I labeled each terminal strip, tube, and pot with small pieces of masking tape to help to ID the component location.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

I have decided to wire the TV like the kits shows. I will use safety caps where needed and I replaced the Selenium rectifier with a 2 lug terminal strip and a 1N4007 diode. On the schematic, there looks like 300ma by the selenium rectifier. I'm guessing that either this is the rating of the rectifier or the total current draw through the rectifier. In any case a 1 amp diode exceeds those numbers by a factor of 3.

I started step 1 yesterday (Monday) and finished it today (Tuesday). Some observations are in order. All-in-all the step by step instructions and the pictorial work very well and the steps are in a logical order. For instance, to wire the filament string, you start at the fuse holder then wire the first tube as in the schematic (V15), then the next wire goes to V14 and so down the filament string.

Working with 20awg solid hook-up wire can be a bit trying especially on the small 7 pin tube sockets. Those terminals are fragile! No mishaps yet.

The wire lengths given is the step-by-step are for the most part fairly accurate. There were about 6 wires where I changed the length by maybe an inch. One wire was 2 inches too long. So far this was the only big error in wire lengths. I'd rather have it long than too short. Of course I trimmed the wire to a more reasonable length. I routed the wires per the instruction sheet all within reason.

For R69 a 5 Ohm 5W resistor just at the minus side of the rectifier I used a 22 Ohm 10W sand resistor simply because that's what I had. Once the TV is up and running and with the 122Vac line voltage applied, then the resistor will be substituted for the correct value and wattage. Most likely be a gold chassis mount type resistor. You can see this resistor in the lower left corner of the chassis along with C54, the Safety cap.

Oh, yeah, I labeled each terminal strip, tube, and pot with small pieces of masking tape to help to ID the component location.

I just wonder how many of those sets, that were part of a training course, were either never finished or the trainee couldn't get working.
It's a rather large undertaking for a person without the restoration, kit building and troubleshooting skills that many of us have on this forum.

[Crist Rigott]

Well with the talent and help of this forum, I'm sure I'll be successful.

[Crist Rigott]

I started on step 2 today. I came across something that I decided to change. It was a terminal strip on the IF Strip. It looks like they didn't have the correct one so they made one form 2 others. They took 2 3 position strips and soldered them together.

Also some of the terminals needed "help" as in they were full and I needed to add at least 1 wire to it. So I had the correct terminal strip on hand so I replaced the made up one.

While I have the components removed from the terminal strip, the resistors and caps will be replaced.

[Crist Rigott]

When changing out that terminal strip, I decided to replace the components attached to it. When 1 lead went to a tube socket or ground and there was another component attached there as well it got replaced. I also changed the filament wires to my brown color code.

When I replaced the caps and resistors, I checked their values. Most were very close to what they were supposed to be. All the cap values checked good but a couple of the resistors were out of tolerance.

As my usual practice all film and electrolytic caps get replaced. With this done on the IF strip , I'm ready to resume with instruction sheet 2.