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  #1  
Old 12-15-2016, 10:03 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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I like your soldering job a lot better than the ones that built the IF strip.
It looks like they used 50/50 solder.
BTW, the new terminal strip you used are getting hard to get, as time goes by.
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  #2  
Old 12-15-2016, 03:06 PM
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N2IXK N2IXK is online now
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Nice work!

The soldering on the pre-assembled portions of kits is often pretty lousy, IME.

The Heathkit color set that I put together this year had several melted wires, dropped solder blobs, a broken terminal strip, and an unsoldered connection in the high voltage module.

I also have a Heathkit frequency counter in my shop that was factory assembled (SM-2420). I got it really cheap because it wasn't working due to several cold solder joints....
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  #3  
Old 12-15-2016, 08:59 PM
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dtvmcdonald dtvmcdonald is offline
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The terminal strips are merely getting hidden away. Mouser has them,
just go to Keystone Electronics under manufacturers, then terminals.
Then restrict to lug terminals and go beyond the first page.
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  #4  
Old 12-15-2016, 09:34 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Thanks guys for the nice comments.
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  #5  
Old 12-15-2016, 09:41 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I just finished Step 2 (Audio and Video Output) of 6.

I did a minor mod when mounting the audio output transformer. It looks like they provide holes for the transformer but the chassis hole the primary wires go through would be off center and the wires would have to do a quick 90 degree turn then about 1/2 do another 90 degree turn down through the hole. That ain't happening on my watch! What I did was put the wires through the hole straight down and mark the chassis for another mounting hole. I drilled for a 8-32 screw and used some NOS 8-32 hex head screws, washers, lock washers and nuts. Much better and it looks right.





Then in one of the steps they want you to wire the speaker via 12" wires to the terminal strip. Too much left to do to finish this thing to have a speaker hanging by some wires. I did think that a disconnect pug would work great especially when I mount the thing in a cabinet. Here's my question. Does anybody know where I can get a period correct disconnect? We're talking mid 50's here.

Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-17-2016 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:01 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I followed the instruction sheet pretty much step-by-step. When I ran a wire or installed a component, I highlighted it on a copy of the instruction sheet. I didn't have the .0047uf film cap yet so I just skipped that step. Also I removed the twin lead from the tuner and chassis because it was in the way and getting beat up from handling the chassis. I removed it a while ago.

I do have question and that is there are 2 peaking coils that I installed. A black dot and a red dot. When I installed them to the terminal strips and tube socket, I installed them a little higher up than I normally would think. I remember always seeing these coils mounted higher than the other components. So I did the same. They are about 1/2" higher than the top on the terminal on the terminal strip. Any comments?



C52, C57, and C62 were all safety caps, rather than the paper caps called out in the instruction sheet.

Here are some general photos of where I am.









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  #7  
Old 12-15-2016, 10:58 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Here is something I ran across that I could use some comments on.

The schematic on V6 the 12BY7A tube, a wire shown connected to pin 9 and then a comma and then 3. I think this wire (B-) goes to both pins 9 and 3. At least according to the schematic.

On the instruction sheet 2 there is no mention to run the jumper from pin 9 to pin 3 nor does the pictorial on the same sheet shows it. I'm guessing that the instruction sheet missed that little jumper. Or did they? Is it needed?

I looked at an Emerson schematic which closely resembles this TV and sure enough, the wire goes to both pins 9 and 3.

Should I put in that jumper?



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  #8  
Old 12-16-2016, 09:32 AM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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Is this mis-labeled? Two controls marked R55A?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post

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  #9  
Old 12-16-2016, 08:24 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
Then in one of the steps they want you to wire the speaker via 12" wires to the terminal strip. Too much left to do to finish this thing to have a speaker hanging by some wires. I did think that a disconnect pug would work great especially when I mount the thing in a cabinet. Here's my question. Does anybody know where I can get a period correct disconnect? We're talking mid 50's here.
IIRC I have a 40's Philco speaker mount plug and socket among my parts...It would be an item that someone making that kit back in the day would have in their junk box or get from a parts store...If I can find it then it will be available.
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Old 12-16-2016, 09:29 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
IIRC I have a 40's Philco speaker mount plug and socket among my parts...It would be an item that someone making that kit back in the day would have in their junk box or get from a parts store...If I can find it then it will be available.
Thanks Tom. I'll keep you in mind. Much appreciated.
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  #11  
Old 12-19-2016, 10:20 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
IIRC I have a 40's Philco speaker mount plug and socket among my parts...It would be an item that someone making that kit back in the day would have in their junk box or get from a parts store...If I can find it then it will be available.
I did find it. It is similar to your yoke plug. I'll post a picture if your interested.
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