Tech-Master NIB TV Kit #5516

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

Then in one of the steps they want you to wire the speaker via 12" wires to the terminal strip. Too much left to do to finish this thing to have a speaker hanging by some wires. I did think that a disconnect pug would work great especially when I mount the thing in a cabinet. Here's my question. Does anybody know where I can get a period correct disconnect? We're talking mid 50's here.

IIRC I have a 40's Philco speaker mount plug and socket among my parts...It would be an item that someone making that kit back in the day would have in their junk box or get from a parts store...If I can find it then it will be available.

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

IIRC I have a 40's Philco speaker mount plug and socket among my parts...It would be an item that someone making that kit back in the day would have in their junk box or get from a parts store...If I can find it then it will be available.

Thanks Tom. I'll keep you in mind. Much appreciated.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

IIRC I have a 40's Philco speaker mount plug and socket among my parts...It would be an item that someone making that kit back in the day would have in their junk box or get from a parts store...If I can find it then it will be available.

I did find it. It is similar to your yoke plug. I'll post a picture if your interested.

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I did find it. It is similar to your yoke plug. I'll post a picture if your interested.

Yes, please! Thanks.

[Crist Rigott]

I finished step 5 (Horizontal Oscillator) late last night. I had to lengthen a white wire from 18" to 27" and from 4" to 6". Everything else went ok. Some of the area got pretty tight.

[N2IXK]

Nice work! Set is really coming along....

[Crist Rigott]

This morning I decided to make a couple of mods to the build.

The first one was to T5 the Synchrogiude Transformer. When mounted to the chassis, the terminals were rotated 90 degrees and then they didn't match the instruction sheet.





Now I had already wired it in but decided that I could turn the guts 90 degrees to match the instruction sheet. After un-soldering the components and removing the transformer, I pried open the case by rolling the edges back even with the sides of the case. I then removed the coil and its base.





I then turned the top metal "clip" 90 degrees to match the instruction sheet. I then inserted the coils back in the case and rolled the bottom edge back over using a small dowel. Now the transformer matches the instruction sheet. I then reinstalled the components.

[Crist Rigott]

The other mod was to the two big caps that have a 90 degree bend on their right hand lead. I really didn't like that too much. So I added another terminal strip to terminate those leads. I cut off the end of a terminal strip and mounted it using an existing terminal strip hardware.





Then I re-did those capacitors.

Much better now!



The last redo was to the 150K resistor next to the up and down terminal strip on the left hand side (TB12). I had to add a longer lead length because it went to another terminal strip. Look closely.



I checked the rest of the instruction sheets and a couple of terminals weren't going to be used on TB13. So I ran the resistor from TB12 terminal strip to the new location TB13 and added a jumper between TB13 and TB14.

[Crist Rigott]

And finally an over all view after step 5.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

Yes, please! Thanks.

After much futzing with a bad SD card; pictures at last!



The audio output transformer is not for sale, and will be trimmed off. The side with the transformer once mounted to a defunct speaker. If you don't want the cloth wire on the other end, then I'd like to keep that wire.

I'd do an even trade for that HV connector/cable you did not use that came with your kit.

PM me if interested.

[Crist Rigott]

Thanks for the pictures. Let me think about it for a while. If I did get it, I wouldn't need any wires and such. Just the connectors.

[Crist Rigott]

I've had a lot of suggestions from people on the ARF. While good suggestions, there is still no joy.

Everybody's help is appreciated and together we'll get to the bottom of this.

I think what I'll do next is to change out the rest of the caps and resistors that is left to do in the IF strip. Then look at the alignment procedure that is given in the instruction booklet and see if that will help. In the meantime, I might be able to round up another CRT that I could try. Another thing that is on my mind is to remove the CRT base and closely inspect and redo the leads going through the pins in the base.

I should have a good HV probe to go with my Knight KG-625 VTVM in a few days so then I'll know where I stand with the HV.

I just might need a smaller CRT. We'll see.

With Christmas here, my time in the shop will be limited for a bit.

With that I'd like to wish everybody a Merry Christmas.