Tech-Master NIB TV Kit #5516

[Crist Rigott]

Tom got me thinking about keeping the long wires. So I came up with this solution:



Now, my big question is having both the CRT and yoke wires with a coil in them will that affect the quality of the picture? Anybody know?

Thanks.

[Findm-Keepm]

Probably not - no significant inductance or capacitance generated - if it was color, perhaps, but B/W, no. Think about Predictas - CRT/Yoke had some pretty long interconnect cables......

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Crist Rigott

Tom got me thinking about keeping the long wires. So I came up with this solution:



Now, my big question is having both the CRT and yoke wires with a coil in them will that affect the quality of the picture? Anybody know?

Thanks.

I seems like past practice to keep the yellow wire separate from the rest.
I see you still use the time-proven method of using lacing cord instead of zip ties. That's when craftsmen still cared.
I see more of those strange Chinese names on the caps, but they seem to be good caps.

[Crist Rigott]

dieseljeep,

Yeah, I still like lacing cord. It's a hold over from when I used to do avionic installations. The only time I used Ty-Raps was when attaching the harness to the airframe, if the OEM did the same. Otherwise it was Adel clamps.

Yup, I'll "break out" the yellow wire from the rest of the harness.

I got the caps, that I missed with my order from Just radios, from Sal's Capacitors. Very vice caps indeed.

[Crist Rigott]

I worked on step 6 (Horizontal Output and H.V.). I'm almost done wiring. Step 6 went ok also. I did not quite go step-by-step because I wanted to wire up what was down near the chassis before I installed the flyback transformer. It was much easier to do it that way. All I have left is to wire up the HV lead to the CRT and the power cord.

Here are some pics.

[Crist Rigott]

Here is the HV lead going to the CRT. I used some 20KV wire and a connector and boot from an old color portable TV gotten free from the curb. I replaced the 40KV wire with my 20KV wire and put the 470K resistor in line like the instruction sheet had shown. I double heat shrunk the whole assembly. I also replaced the 20awg standard hook up wire from the 1X2A rectifier tube to the door knob capacitor because it was carrying full HV with the same 20KV wire. The terminal on the tube socket was also double heat shrunk.

I know the instruction sheet shows the resistor directly connected to the door knob cap connector, but I thought using a small piece of 20KV wire which is stranded, it would hold up better to any movement.

What do you think? I'd prefer that the resistor was hard mounted to some phenolic or terminal strip but it does look like it'll work. I'm including a picture of the portion of the instruction sheet.

[Crist Rigott]

Here's is another "kooky" thing about this kit.

They talk about "Insert a polyethylene sleeve over the 1X2 tube and socket." on instruction sheet 6 after all the steps have been completed.

Here are a couple of pics of the supplied sleeve and the note on the instruction sheet.

I'm guessing that the sleeve it there to prevent a shock to service people rather than to prevent arc over. Could be both though.

The sleeve reminds me of the container we used to get aviation spark plugs in. I'm thinking I have to cut the crimped end off and just slide the rest in place. No mention as to how it is secured.

Could I just double heat shrink each tube socket terminal and accomplish the same thing? Is there any other way that I could use?

[Crist Rigott]

OK, I cut the crimped end off of the sleeve and slid it home. Then I tied it off with some lacing cord. Not as goofy as I thought. It has to be used to prevent arc over because the HV is exposed on the end of the door knob cap.