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Old 12-28-2016, 06:05 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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It looks like they broke flush...
If you can CAREFULLY chip enough glass away from the leads to have something to solder to then you can use the really fine phono hook up wire Rat Shaq sells toconnect to the stub....I've had success with that method, but it takes a high watt iron and speed to get a good joint, without cracking the glass.
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:08 PM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
It looks like they broke flush...
If you can CAREFULLY chip enough glass away from the leads to have something to solder to then you can use the really fine phono hook up wire Rat Shaq sells toconnect to the stub....I've had success with that method, but it takes a high watt iron and speed to get a good joint, without cracking the glass.
I've had luck doing the same with a Dremel rotary tool to carefully grind the glass away.

.
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:40 PM
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dtvmcdonald dtvmcdonald is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WISCOJIM View Post
I've had luck doing the same with a Dremel rotary tool to carefully grind the glass away.

.
So have I, as I described earlier. BUT PLEASE ... don't use it on a power tool.
Dangerous to your CRT!

Do it right ... go to store like Lowes or Menards and buy a nice, new
DIAMOND encrusted tool of suitable shape. I used a cutoff disk. And use
it BY HAND. Slow but safe.

However those wires look very close to being long enough as is.

If they stick up at all, they are long enough. Clean them with #0000
steel wool or fine sand paper. Tin them. Then solder on tinned #30 or so
wire ... I get it from #22 tinned stranded wire. Finally stabilize them
using sensor-safe silicone. Make sure they are long enough to go throush
the base pins.

With ordinary care, your tube will live just fine. Don't worry about breaking an extra wire ... I broke a filament wire on one of my 5BP4s fixing
a broken deflection plate pin, and it works fine.
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Old 12-28-2016, 07:07 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I managed to tack on some wires with alligator clips on one end. Then I tested the CRT.

Viola! I didn't take any time to do any adjusting of the picture.

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Old 12-28-2016, 07:09 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Thanks guys for the tips on fixing this CRT. Seeing it does test good with the wires hooked up I'll try and save this thing. Stay tuned.
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Old 12-28-2016, 08:01 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Old 12-28-2016, 11:23 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Well, the new wires are soldered on the CRT and sensor safe silicone has been added. Tomorrow I'll assemble the base to the bulb.

I used Dremel Cut-Off wheels by hand to start scratching the glass away. Then I switched to a #11 hobby blade and scraped the glass away. Then I used the hobby knife to scrape the wire clean and then tinned it.

I used some 30awg magnet wire and cleaned off the enamel. I then formed a very small coil of 2 turns. Yup, I'm using the coil method to attach the new wires to the stubs. A little flux and the wire was positioned on the stud and then soldered. A very nice shaped blob of solder told me I had it licked!

I then cleaned the joints with acetone to clean off the flux. A final rinse of alcohol and on went the sensor safe silicone.









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