Rca 621TS

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by Reece

That chassis looks great all cleaned up. Was just thinking, if makers of slug-tuned radio IF transformers had made them that way, with the little ceramic caps instead of the silver mica jobs, we wouldn't have SMD today. But I'm sure it would have cost more.

Right! As I'm working on this TV, I have noticed the "step up" on the quality of the design. That coil was beefy and well made.

[Crist Rigott]

I started by cutting of the base of the donor cap for the tall uncovered capacitor (C116). I use my band saw and shim the can up from the table of the saw using a piece of 1/16 plywood. This gives me a more even cut.





Then on the 4 other donor caps I marked up from the base 3/8. I know I said 1/2 but 3/8 will work just as good.



Here is what it looks like inside of the donor caps after cutting off the bases.



And a shot after I removed the guts from them.



Then I took the old uncovered C116 and cut its base off as low as I can go. You can see a little bit of the phenolic base still attached to the upper cans guts.



C116 the tall uncovered cap with its guts pulled.



The other 2 tall covered E-caps (C127 and C128) with the bases cut off. These bases were cut off with a 3/8 lip to them so that when these cans are mated to the donor bases they will be the correct height.



Here C127 and C128 with their guts pulled.



And finally here is the line up of the 5 E-Caps. L to R are the 2 short covered ones C131 and C132, then the 2 tall covered ones C127 and C128, and finally the tall uncovered cap C116.

[Crist Rigott]

I cleaned and deburred the cans and bases.

I then made the PVC sleeves from PVC pipe I got at the Home Depot. I true up 1 end on my disc sander using the 90 degree guide. Then I mark the trued end with an arrow. This is the end that will be glued to the base. I true that end up so the can will stick straight on the assembly.
I then mark off a 1 inch cut line and cut it off using my band saw. I then clean up both ends using my #11 hobby knife and sandpaper. This is repeated for all 5 sleeves.



The sleeves are then epoxied to the bases using 15 minute epoxy. I only apply the epoxy to the edge that will rest on the bottom in the base. In the case of C116 were the base is cut off even, I visually align the sleeve to the base.

I then made up my capacitor assemblies. I used Nichicon 105 degree caps that I get from Digikey. The caps are hot glued together and wired using 6oo volt wire. The assembly is put into position in the base and the the insulation of the wires are marked. The assembly is removed from the base and the wires are stripped at the marks.

I use hot glue to glue the caps into the bases. I usually glob on a big dollop and then insert the caps into the bases. This is allowed to set up and the the wires are soldered to the proper terminal. The ground wire is left unconnected till the cap is inserted into the chassis, then it is soldered to a twisty tab.

Here is a picture of C127. BTW, I used 47uf caps instead of the 40uf called for, a 22uf instead of the 20uf, a 82uf instead of the 80uf, and a 270uf instead of the 250uf.



Here is a picture of C116 before the caps are inserted into the base. It has 4 caps.



Another view.



The base of C116 with the wires soldered to the terminal.



Top side of C116.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Crist, What kind of blade you have in your band saw that cuts those cans so smoothly? Or have you already cleaned and de-burred your donor cans before you took those first pictures.

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Crist, What kind of blade you have in your band saw that cuts those cans so smoothly? Or have you already cleaned and de-burred your donor cans before you took those first pictures.

I think it is an Olson 1/4 .014 14tpi. Haven't cleaned them up yet.

[Kevin Kuehn]

So that's a fairly thin, primarily for wood cutting blade? Anyhow it sure cuts smooth, but I'm sure that has a whole lot to do with the saw operator.

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

So that's a fairly thin, primarily for wood cutting blade? Anyhow it sure cuts smooth, but I'm sure that has a whole lot to do with the saw operator.

The band saw is a Delta 9" table top. I use it primarily for my model airplanes. Usually 1/4 5 ply plywood at the most. Also the blade is fairly new since December.