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Old 05-27-2017, 05:43 AM
Montman Montman is offline
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How about that HV capacitor c-187 in the HV cage. Any thoughts about testing it and replacing it if its bad.

I also got two more 8TS30 tvs today.
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Old 05-27-2017, 06:35 AM
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N2IXK N2IXK is offline
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The ceramic "doorknob" HV caps rarely go bad in my experience. No need for routine replacement.

Hard to test it except in the set, under operating voltage. If bad, it will arc over or short out the high voltage. Similar caps are still made, but expensive. If you actually need one, look on eBay, or ask around here and somebody will have one.

Last edited by N2IXK; 05-27-2017 at 06:39 AM.
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Old 05-27-2017, 04:11 PM
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M3-SRT8 M3-SRT8 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N2IXK View Post
The ceramic "doorknob" HV caps rarely go bad in my experience. No need for routine replacement.

Hard to test it except in the set, under operating voltage. If bad, it will arc over or short out the high voltage. Similar caps are still made, but expensive. If you actually need one, look on eBay, or ask around here and somebody will have one.
What about the two resistors underneath the 1B3-GT?
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Old 05-27-2017, 04:09 PM
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M3-SRT8 M3-SRT8 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montman View Post
How about that HV capacitor c-187 in the HV cage. Any thoughts about testing it and replacing it if its bad.

I also got two more 8TS30 tvs today.
Just picked one up myself. From a good collector friend. Untouched, as far as caps are concerned, but somebody had replaced the HV CRT lead with a big cupped color set one. I'll replace that with an original RCA one. Otherwise, nice original condition. I'm going to restuff everything and put the chassis in my sweet condition Air-King A-1000 cabinet, which came with a thoroughly botched recap job in a rusty moldy chassis. I'll scan and copy and print the original Air-King chassis label and affix it to the new chassis, and nobody will ever suspect.

Well, close to nobody...
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