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  #1  
Old 06-22-2017, 01:17 PM
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bandersen bandersen is offline
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+2 - Also I've cracked open some Philco couplates and they are ceramic caps. Nothing special. They used them to cut assembly time not because they were precision parts.
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  #2  
Old 06-22-2017, 02:12 PM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
+2 - Also I've cracked open some Philco couplates and they are ceramic caps. Nothing special. They used them to cut assembly time not because they were precision parts.
+3. Those values were not that far off from the original. I would concentrate on other issues. Couplates are often one of the last things to go.
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Old 06-23-2017, 10:28 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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OK guys, I'll just clean it up and re-install it. Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2017, 10:40 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I'm pretty much done with the backside. I re-stuffed the E-caps, replaced all the resistors, and film capacitors. I cleaned and redressed the HV leads and used some heat shrink on the 1B3GT socket. I replaced the 40 ohm 20 watt sand resistor with a 60 ohm 25 watt resistor because of the higher line voltage.



I then replaced the rectifier diodes with 2 1N5408 3A diodes. I used s 3 prong terminal strip. Worked out great. I also replaced the .1uf bumble bee cap with a .1uf safety cap.



I then pulled the IF board to do the recapping. A lot of the wires were soldered onto the stakes. It did come off fine though. A bit tedious. Once per TV will be enough thank you.

The board had a coating on the foil side. When I removed the resistors, it just ignored the coating. Once the part was removed, I cleaned the area up with my solder wick, then used a Q-tip and acetone to clean away any "varnish". Once the parts were soldered back in and the flux cleaned off I did a real good inspection and the used some clear corona dope to recoat the board. The last picture was before the re-coating.



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Old 06-23-2017, 10:47 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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BTW, I'm getting ready to do the main board. I have the film caps, resistors, and the 2 micas will be replaced. Is there anything else that I need to be on the lookout for? These boards look very similar to the Predicta boards. I'm concerned about the networks. Should I just shot gun them and be done with them? Which ones are usually bad if any? As with most, I only want to pull this board once.

BTW, I'm leaving all the ceramic discs alone. Right?
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:57 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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While recapping the main board I ran across this:



This is K2 and it has a 500pf cap added to pins 5 & 6. Here is the schematic of K2 and I penciled in the added cap.



Here is the part of the schematic that K2 is used in. It is in the audio section just after the volume pot. Again I penciled in the added cap.



Any idea why this was done?

If you look closely you'll see K2 is missing some coating on the face and on the top in several areas. I'm going to build a new one. Any idea what I should use for caps?

Thanks.
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  #7  
Old 06-24-2017, 10:34 AM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post

Any idea why this was done?
The only effect of adding that cap would be a slight increase in bass response.
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