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Old 07-12-2017, 05:02 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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The yoke cover is in sad shape. The back face is completely crumbled. The centering ring and holder is separated.





My buddy thinks he might have a good one for me but it won't be till the weekend for him to see. So I decided to make one. I was going to use the plastic approach like Bob Andersen did but couldn't find the right plastic. So I made one with the materials I had at hand. I had some 1/16 thick phenolic, some 1/64 plywood, some 1/32 plywood, and some PVC sprinkler pipe that I use when re-stuffing E-caps.

I first drew it out using my CAD program. Then printed out the parts and tacked them onto the phenolic. I cut them out and filed and sanded them to shape. Once the rings were made I decided that 2 layers of 1/64 plywood would work as the "rims" with the butt joints 180 degrees apart.

For the "clamping" part I used some PVC sprinkler pipe but the O.D. was just a little too big and it has a wall thickness of 1/16 inch. I thought that that might be too thick and it needed to be 1/32 wall thickness. I rotated a 1 inch long piece up against my disc sander and sanded down the pipe to 1/32 wall. It is easier than you think. Just have to keep checking your progress.

I then used some super glue to glue on the large rim, then the other rim on top of the first. I soaked the super glue down the joint between the two pieces. I then sanded it down to the correct height and drew a 1/8 line along the edge for the tabs. The tabs are 3/8 wide 90 degrees apart. I used my Dremel with a 1/2 sanding drum to sand away that 1/8 inch between the tabs. A small hand file was used to get the corners of the tabs. I then used some 15 minute epoxy to form a fillet along the inside edge for strength.

I did the same for the centering ring holder portion.

I drilled 1/8 holes in the sprinkler pipe every 3/8 inch to from the fingers. I then used a #11 blade in my hobby knife to cut the slots. This was then epoxied in place.

The wooden parts were given a soaking of super glue to seal them, a light sanding and then some primer. Again some light sanding and some gloss black will complete the assembly. The black is drying as I type.
















Last edited by Crist Rigott; 07-12-2017 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 07-12-2017, 07:33 PM
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Notimetolooz Notimetolooz is offline
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Impressive work, Crist!
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Old 07-12-2017, 08:22 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Impressive work, Crist!
Thanks Tim.
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Old 07-12-2017, 08:24 PM
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Bill Cahill Bill Cahill is offline
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Very nice work. I'm just worried about that flyback. What are the three wires going to the second anode?
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Old 07-12-2017, 08:29 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Very nice work. I'm just worried about that flyback. What are the three wires going to the second anode?
Thanks Bill.
I'm not sure what 3 wires you are talking about. There's a red one, and black one which goes to the yoke, and I think there's a white one and I'm not sure where it goes. I have the cover on the HV cage.
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Old 07-12-2017, 08:33 PM
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Bill Cahill Bill Cahill is offline
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Where does the black wire come from? If it's the yoke, very likely it goes to one of the taps on the flyback.
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Old 07-12-2017, 09:28 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Where does the black wire come from? If it's the yoke, very likely it goes to one of the taps on the flyback.
Right, it goes to one of the taps.
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Old 07-13-2017, 10:21 PM
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I'm not sure what 3 wires you are talking about. ...
I think he's talking about the red wires from what looks like the 1B3 rectifier tube socket (the brown plastic cylinder). One wire to the very high voltage GRT connection, and the other two a winding around the flyback core.
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Old 07-13-2017, 10:55 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I think he's talking about the red wires from what looks like the 1B3 rectifier tube socket (the brown plastic cylinder). One wire to the very high voltage GRT connection, and the other two a winding around the flyback core.
OK. You are correct about the 3 red wires.
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