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#1
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Looking good! At some point I need to try dipping a flyback in Polyurethane varnish and see how it holds up. The Super Corona Dope MSD sheet says it's a modified Alkyd, which I'm assuming means it's a your basic Alkyd resin with Polyurethane additive for better flexibility/heat resistance. Also most Alkyd and Phenolic resins are moisture permeable, meaning they will allow moisture vapor to slowly pass through them.
https://www.alliedelec.com/m/d/f2adb...1b03fa9565.pdf |
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#2
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Thanks Kevin.
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#3
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Today I re-stuffed C2. I used some solid 22awg 600V wire for each lead to the terminals. I'll let the pictures tell the story.
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#4
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How do you get such a nice clean cut when opening the caps? Lathe??
jr |
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#5
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I use a band saw then true up the parting surfaces with my disc sander.
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| Audiokarma |
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#6
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Just a fun fact. Here is a picture of all the resistors and capacitors I intend to replace during this restoration. $ E-Caps are missing from the photo. They are in a re-stuffed C2. All of the replacement resistors are the next step up in wattage. The 1/2W get 1W, the 1W gets 2W, the 2W gets 3W, the 4W gets 7W, and so on. The main chassis Candohm (R109) resistor is listed as a 15K 10W and will be replaced with a 15K 50W chassis mount resistor.
Last edited by Crist Rigott; 11-07-2017 at 07:24 PM. |
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