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Old 11-07-2017, 01:00 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Looking good! At some point I need to try dipping a flyback in Polyurethane varnish and see how it holds up. The Super Corona Dope MSD sheet says it's a modified Alkyd, which I'm assuming means it's a your basic Alkyd resin with Polyurethane additive for better flexibility/heat resistance. Also most Alkyd and Phenolic resins are moisture permeable, meaning they will allow moisture vapor to slowly pass through them.

https://www.alliedelec.com/m/d/f2adb...1b03fa9565.pdf
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Old 11-07-2017, 04:25 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Thanks Kevin.
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Old 11-07-2017, 04:31 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Today I re-stuffed C2. I used some solid 22awg 600V wire for each lead to the terminals. I'll let the pictures tell the story.













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Old 11-07-2017, 04:39 PM
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jr_tech jr_tech is offline
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How do you get such a nice clean cut when opening the caps? Lathe??

jr
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:29 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
How do you get such a nice clean cut when opening the caps? Lathe??

jr
I use a band saw then true up the parting surfaces with my disc sander.
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:31 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Just a fun fact. Here is a picture of all the resistors and capacitors I intend to replace during this restoration. $ E-Caps are missing from the photo. They are in a re-stuffed C2. All of the replacement resistors are the next step up in wattage. The 1/2W get 1W, the 1W gets 2W, the 2W gets 3W, the 4W gets 7W, and so on. The main chassis Candohm (R109) resistor is listed as a 15K 10W and will be replaced with a 15K 50W chassis mount resistor.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 11-07-2017 at 07:24 PM.
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