Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV

[tom.j.fla]

Nice! When I do a full restore I try to go the route you do. Once again nice, very nice. All the best, Tom.J

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by tom.j.fla

Nice! When I do a full restore I try to go the route you do. Once again nice, very nice. All the best, Tom.J

Thank you Tom. Much appreciated.

[Crist Rigott]

I did a terminal strip located near the front of the chassis. It was pretty much self contained and consisted of just a few parts.



During the removal of the old parts, I noticed that there was that yellow CAD plating residue on parts of the terminal strip.





What I do to clean off that residue is I use CLR cut 50/50 with water. I brushed on a little with a cut down acid brush to about 1/2 inch long. I then "scrub" the area with the acid brush. Then I mop up the area with paper towels, Q-Tips, and alcohol. The residue comes off very easy this way.



I then replaced the components and cleaned off the flux, and I'm done.



Since this picture was taken, I added some more solder to the lower ground terminal.

[Crist Rigott]

Moving to the upper part of the chassis I decided to do the terminal strip near T3.
Pretty routine and nothing special to report except I had to lengthen a lead on R84 a 100 Ohm resistor. What I do is trim the one side to about 1/4 inch length. I then use some 22awg bus wire and attach it to the trimmed lead using the coil method. I then figure out how long the lead needs to be and slide a piece of 1/16 inch heat shrink tubing down to the coil. I then shrink the tubing and then use a 1/4 inch long piece of 1/8 heat shrink tubing to cover up the coil.

[Crist Rigott]

Did some work around V9. Here are the before and after pictures.





And some around V14.





And an over all picture of my progress.

[Crist Rigott]

My high voltage wire came in so I finished the Flyback wiring. I decided to use some new 20Kv 22awg wire. I've used this stuff before and it has worked well for me. The working H.V. is about 12 to 14Kv.
I used some heat shrink to increase the diameter of the wire and to provide some extra abrasion resistance as it passes through the then guides. I then soldered it to the 1B3GT tube socket and used several layers of heat shrink tubing to provide some extra strain relief on the wires as they go into the tube socket. I then used some lacing cord to tie the wires together before they go into the tube socket shell.

I also used some of this wire for the plate cap wire for both 6BQ6GT and the 1B3GT tubes. I'll terminate the CRT HV lead during the dry fit phase.

[Crist Rigott]

OK guys, I have some questions for the disc capacitors in this TV. I know they should be good, but I tested one and it was 50% high. So I'm thinking that maybe I'll replace them. There are only 10 of them.
My question is what do I use to replace them? I know I need ceramic disc and I'm thinking of getting 1KV type. I know there are by-pass and coupling caps. Do I get COG, NPO, Z5U, Y5P, etc?
Below is a simple chart I made up that shows the SAMS parts list and the cross for each size cap. Also the Item Number of each cap. I checked the old Allied Catalog archive but they don't really list the specs for those caps.
Any help would be appreciated.