Zenith H2447R 19" Porthole TV

[Crist Rigott]

During this weekend swap meet at our annual convention, I managed to get a few "donor" E-Caps for C4. This E-Cap is the smaller diameter kind.
I restuffed it basically the same way as the others. I use some R/C wing tube that I had after building a model. This stuff works great. I kept the caps out of the sleeve because they put a slight pressure on the sleeve and I thought it would deform the round sleeve. I haven't cleaned out the cans yet.

[Crist Rigott]

The bottom side of the chassis is done. Every resistor, film cap, electrolytic, disc, and mica cap was replaced. Now on to the topside. The HV cage, tuner, yoke, etc.

[Crist Rigott]

I replaced all of the resistors in the tuner today. 3 of them were a bit tough. I relied on the coil method for those 3 and a few other places. I cleaned the tuner assembly and then replaced the resistors. I then used De-Oxit and a business card to clean the fingers where the tuning strips slide through.

As a side note the average the resistors were 23% from their nominal resistance. The lowest was 3% and the highest was 62%. Of the 9 resistors replaced, 5 were way out of tolerance, 2 were 12% (just out of tolerance), and 2 were 3% (well within tolerance). Pretty close to what I've seen through the 6 chassis I've restored. Where at least 50% were out of tolerance. 25% were just out of tolerance, and 25% were with in tolerance.

[ha1156w]

As a still-improving restorer, I love reading these thorough restoration discussions and picking up new techniques and correcting my improper methods. I learn so so much from these detailed walk-through restorations!

[Crist Rigott]

Glad to hear that. All the best with your restorations.

[Crist Rigott]

On to the turret. This turret is massive and very well built. First a photo 'walk around".

Here it is just removed from the chassis with the outboard cover removed.



The aft (motor driven end), if so equipped.



Looking at the side that faces to picture tube.



This is the side that faces forward. It also has the oscillator adjustment tool and drive gear.



Close up of the front end.



A close up of the detent mechanism. Another indication of the quality of this TV.



The aft end ball race adjuster. The turret is suspended by 2 ball bearings. The front end uses a race and 9 "free range" ball bearings, while the aft end uses a thrust bearing. The aft end race can be adjusted in or out to get all the "play" out yet still spin freely.



The front end race.



The aft thrust bearing and the 9 balls for the front race.



A close up of the front shaft where the balls ride.



A close up of the aft section where the thrust bearing rides.



I took this picture to "locate" the actual strip according to the number stamped into the turret.

[Crist Rigott]

I removed each strip and then I cleaned all the parts and removed some light rust from the inside of the cage. The strips will be dealt with later.
The turret is copper plated steel and while cleaning and polishing it, I rubbed through the plating. My idea was to clear coat the polished copper plated turret to prevent it from tarnishing. Then I remembered that I had some Rust-Oleum Metalic Copper spray paint. A couple of quick coats and we are in business.

Here is a picture of the aft end where I masked off the thrust bearing race and the new paint. Not much difference. The turret looks very good painted.



Here is a picture of the turret installed into the cage and the free end play adjusted along with the drive gear installed. The turret spins very nicely with no end play.



The end play is taken up by screwing in on the aft ball race. When adjusted just right, the large nut is then tightened to "lock" the assembly. While this might lock the assembly, there was some greenish looking liquid applied to the lock nut and race to prevent it from coming loose. I used some Super Corona Dope that I had to lock the assembly down.



A close up of the front end after assembly.