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#1
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Is there a way to try to eliminate it without a crt tester for that tube. Or maybe modify a tester I have here to maybe clear the short. Or a separate heater source.
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#2
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May not be CRT. You can tap the neck & see if it comes & goes
but you also shake the CRT board. Most sets the filament comes off the FBT & one side goes to ground. You have to lift it above ground & if its grounded in the FBT out of luck. Also when you get a H-K short USUALLY the K goes to 0 V & lights up bright the bad color then set goes into shut down. Another test is lift the blue K & one of the others. run jumpers to swap the K's & see if the blue still acts up or it goes over to the other color. Do it with a B&W pix to save confusion !! Sears had a crap load of 19" Sanyos with Sylvania jugs shorting. Cure was get the filament above ground & add a 1.5 meg & .001 cap but I dont remember where ! IIRC the resistor went from the bad K to filament but dont remember where the cap went ![]() BTW someone used to make an isolation booster that worked on the sweep freq. You would wire it for no boost. Maybe Brian remembers ? 73 Zeno ![]() LFOD ! |
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#3
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Well upon turning on it flickers bright then normal but when it gets bright the edges are blue and smeared and turning it on as the crt lights up there is a lot of blue then after a minute the blue calms down then flickers from time to time and other times it won't flicker. So I did think it may be a cap on the neck board and the fly is 2 years old or another cap in another area of the board. The set never went into shut down.
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