Scored an Admiral 19A11

[Crist Rigott]

Thanks guys.

I've ordered the HV caps, 630V caps, and picked the other stuff from Mouser. They are only a 20 minute drive away! Will Call so there is no shipping.

Working on stuffing the 3 section E-Cap C1. Pics to follow.

[Crist Rigott]

Been busy over the holiday. Things have settled down a bit.
I re-stuffed C1 with 3 Nichicon 10k hour caps in the usual manner that I do.





Then I labeled all the components like I usually do.



I noticed that the 3 wires coming from the HV coil going to the Osc. 6V6 tube were hard and the insulation just crumbled away. So I'm in the middle of replacing those wires along with the HV wire going to the plate cap of the 1B3GT. That wire was cracking too.

[mr_rye89]

Very cool set! I've been after a tabletop set like that for a while. Those crumbly rubber wires remind me of that Philco radio I restored

[decojoe67]

Continued success with the resto. That is one of the best of the small early post-war 7" sets. I was watching mine the other day and they perform so well. This one was from the son of the original owner, from the original house and never stored away! The picture, as usual, looks more washed-out than it really is:

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by decojoe67

Continued success with the resto. That is one of the best of the small early post-war 7" sets. I was watching mine the other day and they perform so well. This one was from the son of the original owner, from the original house and never stored away! The picture, as usual, looks more washed-out than it really is:

Thanks for the kind words. Your set looks awesome!

[Crist Rigott]

An update of my progress. The HV caps came in so I started with the HV section. I replaced all the caps and resistors, and thouroughly cleaned all surfaces. I removed the phenolic board and pots and cleaned them too.





I then installed a fuse holder in the AC line going to the ON/OFF switch. I used an existing holes and just removed the wire from the interlock and folded it back to the fuse holder and installed a new brown wire from the fuse holder to the interlock.



I then installed C1 and wired that.



Then C2 was replaced with a terminal strip and 2 E-Caps. The ground terminal was soldered to the chassis like all ground terminals are. The terminal strip was placed in the same location as the clip was for C2. The wires were then just tacked in place so I could do a power up.

[Crist Rigott]

I'm replacing the components in the Horizontal and Vertical sections right now. I thought that I would include a picture of how I arrange things when I'm doing a section of the chassis.

First thing I do is take some close up pictures of the area. Then using some lined notebook paper and a pencil, I draw out what is connected. For example let's say a tube we'll call V12. I draw a circle and place the key way and 8 dots which represent the terminals. I then draw a resistor going from pin 1 and the other end of the resistor I list where it goes like #3 V13, and so on. I also draw in what ever is connected to that terminal like wires, coils, etc.

Then I clip out the components that I'll be changing out. I lay then next to the chassis then I measure the resistance of the clipped out resistors and record them on my spreadsheet. I then get a new resistor and measure that and again record it on my spreadsheet. I dig out the the new caps too. I placed the new components next to the old ones. I then clean up the terminals and clean them using an acid brush and acetone. I then make any repairs needed to wiring etc.

Then I start to install the new components. It's like building a kit now! After soldering, I again clean the terminals with acetone.

Then take a break.

[Crist Rigott]

Originally Posted by mr_rye89

Very cool set! I've been after a tabletop set like that for a while. Those crumbly rubber wires remind me of that Philco radio I restored

I think it is a cool set too! Yeah, the Philco crumbly wires on 38 and 39 radios!