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Old 01-25-2018, 07:00 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I also use some spacers that I make up so I can grab the chassis when upright.

These spacers are 1" x 1/2" with a 3/16 hole down the middle. I then use a 5/16 drill bit and counter bore a hole about 1/4 deep. Then I round the "bottom" corner to prevent it from digging into my bench top.

For the hardware I use some #10 (3/16) x 1 1/2 long countersink head 10-24 bolts. I also use some 10-24 nylon lock nuts. Using my disc sander I reduce the head diameter so it'll fit into the counter bored hole.

Then the spacer is bolted to the chassis. Works great and I can grab and lift the chassis much easier. Been doing this type of thing for awhile now. Works great!

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Old 01-25-2018, 07:33 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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As my usual practice, I labeled all the tubes, resistors, capacitors, coils, inductors, and transformers according to the Sams docs. I also label all the terminal strips.

There was only 1 resistor that was in the chassis that wasn't covered in the Sams. See if you can spot it in picture #2. I also found a mistake with the value with C56. Sams has it listed as a .002uf while it should be a .003uf which was installed and Riders has it listed as a .003uf.

Now I'm ready to start re-stuffing the E-Caps.



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Old 01-25-2018, 07:48 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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While I'm posting pictures I thought I would show you guys 2 capacitors that this set uses.

C35 is a 4pf IF Coupling capacitor. C26 is a 2.5pf IF coupling capacitor.







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