Attempting first project - Some questions if I may

[Electronic M]

Often times back in the day a tech would replace one section of a can (when just that section died) by disconnecting the wire to that section's positive terminal, deleting the wire and adding a new cap on the far end of the deleted wire. Look at the hold control (and any points connected directly to it by wire) odds are a newer replacement cap was connected elsewhere by a repair tech.


If the blank terminal appears to never had solder added to it then maybe it was not connected due to a production change or factory wiring error (yes I've seen Zeniths with factory wiring errors). But if a wire was soldered on and removed then my first paragraph is the likely scenario.

Without the schematic, it is hard to definitely say what lack of that cap would do. A lytic is normally for filtering not RC frequency setting. Odds are without it there would be more noise in the circuits it is on...Sometimes that leads to major issues sometimes only minor ones...Zenith sets have a reputation among repair techs of being able to do a damn good job of feigning normal operation despite some major component failure that normally would take out other brands.

[albanks]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Often times back in the day a tech would replace one section of a can (when just that section died) by disconnecting the wire to that section's positive terminal, deleting the wire and adding a new cap on the far end of the deleted wire. Look at the hold control (and any points connected directly to it by wire) odds are a newer replacement cap was connected elsewhere by a repair tech.


If the blank terminal appears to never had solder added to it then maybe it was not connected due to a production change or factory wiring error (yes I've seen Zeniths with factory wiring errors). But if a wire was soldered on and removed then my first paragraph is the likely scenario.

Without the schematic, it is hard to definitely say what lack of that cap would do. A lytic is normally for filtering not RC frequency setting. Odds are without it there would be more noise in the circuits it is on...Sometimes that leads to major issues sometimes only minor ones...Zenith sets have a reputation among repair techs of being able to do a damn good job of feigning normal operation despite some major component failure that normally would take out other brands.

OK thanks for the advice. When I open up the back again soon after rebuilding the cans I will take a look.

[zeno]

See if the old cap is original. If it is or its an OEM replacement
it will have 22-#### on it. Also a 4 number date code & 3 number
EIA code sometimes run together. See if the 22-#### matches
Sams. There may be a production change also BUT I did a lot
of cans on these, enuf to stock them & dont remember one.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[albanks]

Originally Posted by zeno

See if the old cap is original. If it is or its an OEM replacement
it will have 22-#### on it. Also a 4 number date code & 3 number
EIA code sometimes run together. See if the 22-#### matches
Sams. There may be a production change also BUT I did a lot
of cans on these, enuf to stock them & dont remember one.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

I will check this out when I open it back up. I bought a replacement NOS can before I decided against chancing it with dried electrolytes. So when I rebuild the can and open the set back up to install it I will check what you said, take some pictures to post here as well because I will want to rectify any potential mistakes and that seems like a potential problem.

[albanks]

Incidentally where do you guys pick up your hook up wire? Seems like a dumb thing to ask but I am looking around for some 20 awg, solid, 600v, high heat, and with good insulation. Maybe it's hard for me to find because I don't need 100ft or more I'm looking for something inexpensive. I need it to rebuild the cans and so even a 25ft spool is overkill.

[Notimetolooz]

Originally Posted by albanks

Incidentally where do you guys pick up your hook up wire? Seems like a dumb thing to ask but I am looking around for some 20 awg, solid, 600v, high heat, and with good insulation. Maybe it's hard for me to find because I don't need 100ft or more I'm looking for something inexpensive. I need it to rebuild the cans and so even a 25ft spool is overkill.

Your probably going to have get at least 25 ft.
Are you sure you want solid? Stranded can be used more places, like where some movement is expected.

[albanks]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

Your probably going to have get at least 25 ft.
Are you sure you want solid? Stranded can be used more places, like where some movement is expected.

I'm not sure about anything, I'm literally an absolute beginner. I'm just following the instructions below and trying to get my set working again after over 2 years.

Does this look remotely correct?

https://www.tubesandmore.com/product...oth-cover-600v

Luckily I have been reading here and studying a lot. I am glad I figured out about Kester solder before I used the lead-free stuff I bought from Harbor Freight.

Capacitors arrived today from Mouser, once I prepare the new can I will try to power up.

[zeno]

At the shop we used the wire from a junked Zenith ! Most of it was
braided & tinned, rubber coated followed by color coded cloth. They
WAY over did it ! No one else used has high a quality hook up wire
that I remember. Most used solid wire & it easily broke off over the
years from heat or getting nicked by dykes.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

Originally Posted by albanks

Incidentally where do you guys pick up your hook up wire? Seems like a dumb thing to ask but I am looking around for some 20 awg, solid, 600v, high heat, and with good insulation. Maybe it's hard for me to find because I don't need 100ft or more I'm looking for something inexpensive. I need it to rebuild the cans and so even a 25ft spool is overkill.