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  #1  
Old 04-03-2018, 08:24 AM
albanks albanks is offline
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Incidentally where do you guys pick up your hook up wire? Seems like a dumb thing to ask but I am looking around for some 20 awg, solid, 600v, high heat, and with good insulation. Maybe it's hard for me to find because I don't need 100ft or more I'm looking for something inexpensive. I need it to rebuild the cans and so even a 25ft spool is overkill.
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Old 04-03-2018, 08:34 PM
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Notimetolooz Notimetolooz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albanks View Post
Incidentally where do you guys pick up your hook up wire? Seems like a dumb thing to ask but I am looking around for some 20 awg, solid, 600v, high heat, and with good insulation. Maybe it's hard for me to find because I don't need 100ft or more I'm looking for something inexpensive. I need it to rebuild the cans and so even a 25ft spool is overkill.
Your probably going to have get at least 25 ft.
Are you sure you want solid? Stranded can be used more places, like where some movement is expected.
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Old 04-03-2018, 09:01 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Originally Posted by Notimetolooz View Post
Your probably going to have get at least 25 ft.
Are you sure you want solid? Stranded can be used more places, like where some movement is expected.
I'm not sure about anything, I'm literally an absolute beginner. I'm just following the instructions below and trying to get my set working again after over 2 years.

Does this look remotely correct?

https://www.tubesandmore.com/product...oth-cover-600v

Luckily I have been reading here and studying a lot. I am glad I figured out about Kester solder before I used the lead-free stuff I bought from Harbor Freight.

Capacitors arrived today from Mouser, once I prepare the new can I will try to power up.
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Old 04-04-2018, 07:08 PM
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Notimetolooz Notimetolooz is offline
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Oh, I see what you are doing now.
I was thinking you wanted it for chassis wiring.
For the capacitor re-stuff I would use bare solid wire, if the leads on the caps aren't long enough. Then, where needed, use heat shrink tubing for insulation.
To get the bare solid you could just remove the insulation from any solid wire. Use could also buy bare wire, often called buss wire. Cloth covered wire wasn't used much in a set as late as yours. Plastic covered wire is cheaper also.
Solid wire is OK for going point to point on the chassis, like from one tube socket to another or a terminal strip. Stranded should be used for thing like CRT sockets, separate speakers and separate tuners. Stranded would be OK for point to point also, that makes it more versatile. Solid is slightly cheaper and is easier to get into a terminal hole so the manufacturer used it for point to point.
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Old 04-04-2018, 07:26 PM
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Notimetolooz Notimetolooz is offline
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I've bought wire from All Electronics. Modern wire usually doesn't have to be rated for 600V like tube electronics often does.
https://www.allelectronics.com/categ...e/cable/1.html
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Old 04-04-2018, 08:14 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notimetolooz View Post
I've bought wire from All Electronics. Modern wire usually doesn't have to be rated for 600V like tube electronics often does.
https://www.allelectronics.com/categ...e/cable/1.html
Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I understand what I need now. That's exactly what I was hoping to read. Now I just need to order it and then get to work on the rebuild. Can't wait. Thanks again.
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  #7  
Old 04-20-2018, 05:36 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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I finally got around to tackling this project. I simply cut out all the old electrolytics and soldered in the new ones. My beginner soldering job was kind of sloppy but apparently good enough for the electricity to pass through. I didn't even bother to rebuild the can. I was originally under the impression I would be cutting out ALL the capacitors which is why I found it so daunting. I was under the idea that film capacitors should be replaced. Set has been on for about 2 hours, no problems. During the first 20 minutes picture was occasionally jumpy. I guess it either wasn't warmed up or the settings weren't adjusted properly. This is a 1971 Zenith. Speaker is starting to get tinny, don't know where to go for that problem.
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  #8  
Old 04-20-2018, 05:58 PM
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zeno zeno is offline
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At the shop we used the wire from a junked Zenith ! Most of it was
braided & tinned, rubber coated followed by color coded cloth. They
WAY over did it ! No one else used has high a quality hook up wire
that I remember. Most used solid wire & it easily broke off over the
years from heat or getting nicked by dykes.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

Quote:
Originally Posted by albanks View Post
Incidentally where do you guys pick up your hook up wire? Seems like a dumb thing to ask but I am looking around for some 20 awg, solid, 600v, high heat, and with good insulation. Maybe it's hard for me to find because I don't need 100ft or more I'm looking for something inexpensive. I need it to rebuild the cans and so even a 25ft spool is overkill.
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