Attempting first project - Some questions if I may

[albanks]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

Your probably going to have get at least 25 ft.
Are you sure you want solid? Stranded can be used more places, like where some movement is expected.

I'm not sure about anything, I'm literally an absolute beginner. I'm just following the instructions below and trying to get my set working again after over 2 years.

Does this look remotely correct?

https://www.tubesandmore.com/product...oth-cover-600v

Luckily I have been reading here and studying a lot. I am glad I figured out about Kester solder before I used the lead-free stuff I bought from Harbor Freight.

Capacitors arrived today from Mouser, once I prepare the new can I will try to power up.

[Notimetolooz]

Oh, I see what you are doing now.
I was thinking you wanted it for chassis wiring.
For the capacitor re-stuff I would use bare solid wire, if the leads on the caps aren't long enough. Then, where needed, use heat shrink tubing for insulation.
To get the bare solid you could just remove the insulation from any solid wire. Use could also buy bare wire, often called buss wire. Cloth covered wire wasn't used much in a set as late as yours. Plastic covered wire is cheaper also.
Solid wire is OK for going point to point on the chassis, like from one tube socket to another or a terminal strip. Stranded should be used for thing like CRT sockets, separate speakers and separate tuners. Stranded would be OK for point to point also, that makes it more versatile. Solid is slightly cheaper and is easier to get into a terminal hole so the manufacturer used it for point to point.

[Notimetolooz]

I've bought wire from All Electronics. Modern wire usually doesn't have to be rated for 600V like tube electronics often does.
https://www.allelectronics.com/categ...e/cable/1.html

[albanks]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

I've bought wire from All Electronics. Modern wire usually doesn't have to be rated for 600V like tube electronics often does.
https://www.allelectronics.com/categ...e/cable/1.html

Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I understand what I need now. That's exactly what I was hoping to read. Now I just need to order it and then get to work on the rebuild. Can't wait. Thanks again.

[albanks]

I finally got around to tackling this project. I simply cut out all the old electrolytics and soldered in the new ones. My beginner soldering job was kind of sloppy but apparently good enough for the electricity to pass through. I didn't even bother to rebuild the can. I was originally under the impression I would be cutting out ALL the capacitors which is why I found it so daunting. I was under the idea that film capacitors should be replaced. Set has been on for about 2 hours, no problems. During the first 20 minutes picture was occasionally jumpy. I guess it either wasn't warmed up or the settings weren't adjusted properly. This is a 1971 Zenith. Speaker is starting to get tinny, don't know where to go for that problem.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by albanks

I finally got around to tackling this project. I simply cut out all the old electrolytics and soldered in the new ones. My beginner soldering job was kind of sloppy but apparently good enough for the electricity to pass through. I didn't even bother to rebuild the can. I was originally under the impression I would be cutting out ALL the capacitors which is why I found it so daunting. I was under the idea that film capacitors should be replaced. Set has been on for about 2 hours, no problems. During the first 20 minutes picture was occasionally jumpy. I guess it either wasn't warmed up or the settings weren't adjusted properly. This is a 1971 Zenith. Speaker is starting to get tinny, don't know where to go for that problem.

If the bias voltages are good in the audio section, check different fine-tuning settings to see if any improve sound...If none are better tune for best pic then adjust the Buzz control for best sound.

The main difference between console and portable Zeniths is that the consoles have bigger chassis with more parts and room to work.

[albanks]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

If the bias voltages are good in the audio section, check different fine-tuning settings to see if any improve sound...If none are better tune for best pic then adjust the Buzz control for best sound.

The main difference between console and portable Zeniths is that the consoles have bigger chassis with more parts and room to work.

OK cool I will definitely check that out. I wasn't sure if the speakers just didn't need to be reconed.