Rca ctc-5h

[EdKozk2]

I ended up removing the inner 1/2 inch circular deflection coil stop. Had to cut it flush to the inside surface. This allowed enough space for the deflection coil to slide through and seat all the way against the crt neck. I drilled a hole 3-7/8 inches inward on each side from the covers' rear. The holes were kept along the same horizontal plan as the existing slots for yoke adjustment. I cut some 1/4 inch thick plastic spacers to fill the gap between inside housing and deflection coil clamp bracket. The trickiest part was placing a washer and nut on the inside end of each adjusting screw. I didn't want to drop them in the yoke or crt housing.
Two of the pictures below show the longer bolts I installed to extend the plastic housing rearward about 2 inches. I used 1/4 inch thick plastic sleeves as spacers over the four 1/4-20 hex head bolts. The upper two bolts are 4 1/2 inches long and the lower two are 4 inches long. The shorter bottom are to leave more clearance for the chassis.
These modifications made it possible to get the convergence coil assembly in the correct location on the crt neck.
I have yet to deal with purity and degaussing the screen, it's really bad. I also have to get the chroma circuits going yet. There seems to be no color, I'll try a new crystal before I get carried away.
Ed

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by EdKozk2

...I have yet to deal with purity and degaussing the screen, it's really bad...
Ed

If you were really able to get the yoke flush up against the bell, it only needs to be pulled back a little to fix the purity. Great work so far. Onward!

[Steve D.]

Ed, Quite a creative solution. If I understand your posted photo below, I assume you cut off the heads of the bolts screwed into the rear of the mask. Or did you find double ended threaded screws? Nice job.

-Steve D.

[EdKozk2]

Originally Posted by Steve D.

Ed, Quite a creative solution. If I understand your posted photo below, I assume you cut off the heads of the bolts screwed into the rear of the mask. Or did you find double ended threaded screws? Nice job.

-Steve D.

In picture below, the top short bolt is the original hex head type I removed. I replaced with longer ones like below. I used die to increase the threads an extra inch or so. I could have used fully threaded new bolts also. I removed the entire plastic CRT mask to replace the bolts. They are seated in hex holes on the face of the mask. I use a little tape to keep them from falling out when re-installing the mask back in the cabinet.
I've done all the modification work with the cabinet laying face down on a quilt/ pad.
Ed

[Steve D.]

Originally Posted by EdKozk2

In picture below, the top short bolt is the original hex head type I removed. I replaced with longer ones like below. I used die to increase the threads an extra inch or so. I could have used fully threaded new bolts also. I removed the entire plastic CRT mask to replace the bolts. They are seated in hex holes on the face of the mask. I use a little tape to keep them from falling out when re-installing the mask back in the cabinet.
I've done all the modification work with the cabinet laying face down on a quilt/ pad.
Ed

Ed, Thanks for the explanation. You really thought this through.

-Steve D.

[EdKozk2]

Over the last few weeks I was able to get the chroma circuits working marginally. They could be better. I found the original, from 1957, 3.58 mc crystal to be dead. I installed a newer crystal. This set uses color killer and color burst pots, which seem to have no effect on turning off the color. The color signal passes through anyway.
I extended the black plastic yoke spacers. This made it easier to draw the yoke inward or outward and install the thumb screw nuts.
After I got the color working I had to get back to the issue of color purity. No matter what I did adjusting the yoke, convergence coil assembly, blue lateral magnet or purity rings ; I was unable to get a total red screen. Last weekend at the WARCI in Madison, VK member IsthmusTV, suggested I re-install the original purity magnets as a solution. It ended up that in my case the six original purity magnets got me to a far more consistent red screen. The three magnets on the left side of the screen had the greatest effect. The three right side magnet needed almost no adjustment. Thank you Clark . The fine convergence adjustments for this set leave a lot to be desired. When my wife and I return from the Columbus Zoo and ETF Convention,I'll get back to this set again.
Ed

[Electronic M]

It looks like you're making great progress on the CTC-5.
Did you just push the magnet adjusters or turn them too? On my CTC-2B, 4 and 21AXP based moto you can push/pull the 6 front purity adjusters for coarse adjustment and twist for fine adjustment...I did not need them on my 21FBP converted sets, but the CTC-2B did, and I found twisting them to be the best way of minimizing impurities.

Originally Posted by EdKozk2

When my wife and I return from the Columbus Zoo and ETF Convention,I'll get back to this set again.
Ed

I should have room in the truck for that test jig you want. I can bring it to the ETF for you if that is alright by you.

[EdKozk2]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

It looks like you're making great progress on the CTC-5.

I should have room in the truck for that test jig you want. I can bring it to the ETF for you if that is alright by you.

Tom, It would be better for me if you don't bring the test jig to Ohio. I can pay you for it there. I can wait till the next WARCI meet we're attending to bring it home. I wanted to leave space in my car for other stuff on the way back.
Ed