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Old 05-28-2018, 10:08 AM
albanks albanks is offline
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While I'm waiting for the parts and tools needed to fix up the '71 portable I decided to open up the '65 Zenith and get the chassis disconnected. I have 3 questions. Please see pics for reference.

1.) This is my first time dealing with the wafer board style capacitor. Can I still use the nichicon style capacitors? My procedure is to clip from the bottom, not re-stuff. I understand the negative grounding procedure is different.

2.) The HV anode connector thing is not sitting tight against the tube it looks like its missing a metal clip on the other side. Thoughts?

3.) I turned this thing on for 2 minutes, great CRT strength but picture was turned. I understand I need to rotate the yoke. When I opened it up what I was expecting to see was not there. Can you explain to me in laymans terms what I would be doing? There is a wingnut screw on top, am I in the right area?

Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 05-28-2018, 04:06 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albanks View Post
While I'm waiting for the parts and tools needed to fix up the '71 portable I decided to open up the '65 Zenith and get the chassis disconnected. I have 3 questions. Please see pics for reference.

1.) This is my first time dealing with the wafer board style capacitor. Can I still use the nichicon style capacitors? My procedure is to clip from the bottom, not re-stuff. I understand the negative grounding procedure is different.

2.) The HV anode connector thing is not sitting tight against the tube it looks like its missing a metal clip on the other side. Thoughts?

3.) I turned this thing on for 2 minutes, great CRT strength but picture was turned. I understand I need to rotate the yoke. When I opened it up what I was expecting to see was not there. Can you explain to me in laymans terms what I would be doing? There is a wingnut screw on top, am I in the right area?

Thanks in advance.
First, if the outer can terminals do not connect to chassis ( most cans connected like that have a card board tube that hides the above chassis portion of the can) then ground the new caps to the wires connected to the outer can leads of the original and NOT to chassis. The replacement types should be the same style you use to replace any other lytic.

Second, it looks like one of the fingers of the HV connector rusted off. Go find a cheap or free 1980's-2000's CRT TV and take the whole HV lead from that to use as a replacement... you can also transplant the connector from your new lead to the old one if you want....but keep the new wire just the same, you'll need it some day.

Third, loosen the wing nut and and slide side to side to rotate yoke.
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Old 05-28-2018, 04:48 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Second, it looks like one of the fingers of the HV connector rusted off. Go find a cheap or free 1980's-2000's CRT TV and take the whole HV lead from that to use as a replacement... you can also transplant the connector from your new lead to the old one if you want....but keep the new wire just the same, you'll need it some day.
As usual, thanks for your expertise.

So on this particular point. I didn't follow the wire on the original so I am not sure if it is self-explanatory to completely swap out the HV leads. Whether or not I just use connector or swap out the wire I may need further help on this, do they just disconnect, am I cutting something??
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