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#1
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For the 1W I try to use carbon film, but will use metal film too. For the 2W they are usually metal film. The carbon film are 500V, the 2W are 350V.
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#2
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Today I added the new "Fusistor" and a 2A fast blow fuse. I had a 10 ohm 50W chassis mount resistor so I mounted it on the back of the HV cage. I then wired it to the original Fusistor connector. The 10 ohm value will give me a B+ voltage of 280V using my wall outlet which gives 123VAC. The normal B+ voltage is listed as 275V. This way when the HV cage needs to be removed they can be unplugged without any fuss.
I also installed the IF board cover.
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#3
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I then turned my attention to the CRT/Yoke. I removed the CRT from the shell and gave the CRT a quick wipe down.
I replaced the 2 680 ohm resistors (both were within tolerance) and the 120pf 5KV capacitor. I used a 120pf 6KV cap for that. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I then cleaned up all the wiring and cleaned the connectors too. I then used my lacing cord to tie up each bundle neatly instead of the tape Philco used. ![]() I then cleaned up the inside of the shell. It had a lot of "soot" in there. Now nice and clean. ![]()
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#4
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I noticed that the wire going to the Plate Cap from the 6DQ6 Horizontal Output tube was missing some insulation where it enters the cap. I looked closer and noticed that the inside was was corroded green and needed attention.
I replaced the wire with some 20KV wire that I have. I also used a silicone grommet where the wire exits the HV cage. Dan Jones gave me this tip at his presentation at this years ETF Convention. All better now. ![]() ![]() ![]()
Last edited by Crist Rigott; 08-21-2018 at 12:55 AM. |
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#5
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Quote:
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
| Audiokarma |
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#6
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Right! I'll make the correction. Thanks.
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