Old Muntz TV for sale Locally to me, Should I pick it up?

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

OK now that that's fixed and the TV is running as it should, (its running at 167 watts which is well within tolerance considering today's higher line voltages, and this TV was rated at 105-120V AC) now I just need to get a raster which its not producing inspite of having HV, Vertical and Horizontal running.

Its amazing though that one misinstalled electrolytic cap would cause that many issues.

The sounds you described are not a guarantee (and may not even be an indication) of working horizontal. To check....
If you have a working or non-working CFL that the glass is not busted on take that and place the glass against the H output top plate lead as well as next to flyback doughnut and see if it lights from the RF energy a working HV system produces... If it lights hold a well insulated screwdriver next to the HV connection metal contact with the set on and see if you can draw an arc. If it has over 1/4" arc your HV is present.

Once you confirm HV is present we can talk about making the screen light...

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

The sounds you described are not a guarantee (and may not even be an indication) of working horizontal. To check....
If you have a working or non-working CFL that the glass is not busted on take that and place the glass against the H output top plate lead as well as next to flyback doughnut and see if it lights from the RF energy a working HV system produces... If it lights hold a well insulated screwdriver next to the HV connection metal contact with the set on and see if you can draw an arc. If it has over 1/4" arc your HV is present.

Once you confirm HV is present we can talk about making the screen light...

I was able to confirm High Voltage, I was able to draw a 1/4" arc off the 1B3 tube's anode, however there is no high voltage at the picture tube's anode button.

[Kevin Kuehn]

If you haven't replaced it already, there's likely a 1 meg resistor in series with high voltage lead heading off to the anode button. The resistor is likely mounted under the 1B3 socket. They often go high in resistance or open.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

If you haven't replaced it already, there's likely a 1 meg resistor in series with high voltage lead heading off to the anode button. The resistor is likely mounted under the 1B3 socket. They often go high in resistance or open.

Actually the resistor was mounted on the top of the 5kV Doorknob capacitor and it measured 50 ohms shy of 1 Meg Ohm, so it drifted down a little bit over the years but its still within tolerance suprisingly enough.

which means that it could be the 5kV doorknob capacitor we'll have to look at next...

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Actually the resistor was mounted on the top of the 5kV Doorknob capacitor and it measured 50 ohms shy of 1 Meg Ohm, so it drifted down a little bit over the years but its still within tolerance suprisingly enough.

which means that it could be the 5kV doorknob capacitor we'll have to look at next...

Dang. How'd I miss this post earlier? (Thumps forehead)

Is it honestly labeled 5KV? It should be rated at least 20 KV.

Temporarily disconnect this cap and see if the HV comes up.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

Dang. How'd I miss this post earlier? (Thumps forehead)

Is it honestly labeled 5KV? It should be rated at least 20 KV.

Temporarily disconnect this cap and see if the HV comes up.

It's the original doorknob capacitor to the set, look at the parts list in the Sam's for this set, it says 500 mmf 5kV.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

I was able to confirm High Voltage, I was able to draw a 1/4" arc off the 1B3 tube's anode, however there is no high voltage at the picture tube's anode button.

Your HV rectifier tube is probably bad.

Edit: check that resistor Kevin mentioned first.

[jr_tech]

How did you test for HV at the CRT anode?

jr

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by jr_tech

How did you test for HV at the CRT anode?

jr

I lifted the rubber insulator off the anode of the CRT tube and touched it with the tip of a plastic handled screwdriver to see if I could get it to draw an arc and I couldn't get it to develop an arc like I did at the anode of the 1B3 tube.

[jr_tech]

The voltage on the 1B3 anode is high frequency AC and will arc to an insulated screwdriver. After passing through the 1B3 rectifier, you have DC voltage outputted to the CRT anode, so you may need to ground the screwdriver blade to the chassis to draw an arc.

jr

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by jr_tech

The voltage on the 1B3 anode is high frequency AC and will arc to an insulated screwdriver. After passing through the 1B3 rectifier, you have DC voltage outputted to the CRT anode, so you may need to ground the screwdriver blade to the chassis to draw an arc.

jr

Ok, thanks, I'll try that.