Old Muntz TV for sale Locally to me, Should I pick it up?

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

OK, so how the heck do I measure the voltages of the pins of the CRT's tube socket? There's a plastic cover over it that's riveted on and I don't want to break the CRT Socket.

Secondly which center terminal is the one for the brightness control? the inner or the outer?

There's 3 terminals on the brightness control. You want to measure on the center one, between the 2 outer ones.

Yes it's tough to measure on the CRT connector, which is why I suggested to find the end of R44 which is under the chassis and connected to a wire going up to the CRT socket.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

There's 3 terminals on the brightness control. You want to measure on the center one, between the 2 outer ones.

Yes it's tough to measure on the CRT connector, which is why I suggested to find the end of R44 which is under the chassis and connected to a wire going up to the CRT socket.

I was referring to which set of terminals is for the brightness control, because the brightness and contrast pot is double-ganged pot an inner pot and an outer pot, and both have three terminals.

Although it makes no difference as I got the measurements I needed, and everything is measuring as it should except for pin 10 of the CRT Socket which is measuring at 404 VDC rather than 380 VDC, but Pin 11 of the CRT Socket (the center tap of the brightness control) is measuring between 15VDC and 140VDC like you said it should when the knob was rotated.

So the 404 VDC on pin 10 of the CRT Socket, does that mean something is wrong with that part of the circuit, or is that just because of the higher line voltages?

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

So the 404 VDC on pin 10 of the CRT Socket, does that mean something is wrong with that part of the circuit, or is that just because of the higher line voltages?

I think it's close enough. See my previous post about measuring voltage on pin 2 on the CRT socket. If these 3 voltages are in the ball park you should be good to see if you can get a raster by adjusting the ion trap.

[Kevin Kuehn]

I should have told you to also measure the voltage which goes to pin 2 of the CRT socket referenced to chassis ground, should be 1.3vdc. You can get to that under the chassis on the end R35 that should be connected to another wire going up to pin 2 of the CRT socket. Use the resistor identification on page 17 of your sams to find the actual physical location of the resistors.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

I should have told you to also measure the voltage which goes to pin 2 of the CRT socket referenced to chassis ground, should be 1.3vdc. You can get to that under the chassis on the end R35 that should be connected to another wire going up to pin 2 of the CRT socket. Use the resistor identification on page 17 of your sams to find the actual physical location of the resistors.

OK, Pin 2 of the CRT is about 1.6 VDC which is only .3 volts higher than the reading given in the Sam's Voltage Chart, so I would say those 3 voltages are in the ballpark of where they should be.

So now how do I go about adjusting the Ion Trap on this TV?

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

So now how do I go about adjusting the Ion Trap on this TV?

Basically you rotate the ion trap magnet, at the same time sliding it back and forth until a raster appears on the screen. For starters turn the brightness up full and dimming the lights will help you catch the location. Once you get a raster you turn the brightness down and fine tune the traps location for brightest raster. Don't panic if you don't find the location right away.

[Edit] If you find two locations that are brightest along the length of neck, you want the one closest to the base of the the tube.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Basically you rotate the ion trap magnet, at the same time sliding it back and forth until a raster appears on the screen. For starters turn the brightness up full and dimming the lights will help you catch the location. Once you get a raster you turn the brightness down and fine tune the traps location for brightest raster. Don't panic if you don't find the location right away.

There's a little bit of a problem, the ion trap doesn't move very easily, in fact it moves so hard that it feels like I might neck the tube if I move it too much...

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

There's a little bit of a problem, the ion trap doesn't move very easily, in fact it moves so hard that it feels like I might neck the tube if I move it too much...

Do you see any tensioning device on the trap like a thumb screw, or is it just a spring tension? It might be helpful if you can post a picture of what the beast looks like. You absolutely don't want to get forceful with it.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Do you see any tensioning device on the trap like a thumb screw, or is it just a spring tension? It might be helpful if you can post a picture of what the beast looks like. You absolutely don't want to get forceful with it.

Well, one things for sure, the ion trap on my tv looks nothing like the one in the picture on the service manual...

I was able to get a raster, albeit a very dim one, and the only way I could get the raster to appear was with the brightness control set in the middle, if i turn the brightness control all the way up the picture disapears, and if I turn it all the way down the picture disappears as well, it only shows up when the brightness control is set in the middle.


Picture of the TV's raster, and ion trap posted below.