Late 1920s Eveready Model 1 TRF Set need info

[Electronic M]

Rubber wiring sucks. If I know a set has it I tend to think twice about getting it as rewiring an entire radio is a pain...it's uncommon for a large amount of rubber wiring to be used in a 20s set.

If riders isn't helpful look for a Beitmans covering 20s sets. They were a competitor to riders and one of the only second sources of literature for sets that old.

Some 20s sets the wax paper caps used as coupling, bypass and as B+ filters (lytics weren't used much back then) go bad and others they are fine...I don't know that brand well enough to say which it's likely to be. If you have a good leakage current tester you should check the original caps.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Rubber wiring sucks. If I know a set has it I tend to think twice about getting it as rewiring an entire radio is a pain...it's uncommon for a large amount of rubber wiring to be used in a 20s set.

If riders isn't helpful look for a Beitmans covering 20s sets. They were a competitor to riders and one of the only second sources of literature for sets that old.

Some 20s sets the wax paper caps used as coupling, bypass and as B+ filters (lytics weren't used much back then) go bad and others they are fine...I don't know that brand well enough to say which it's likely to be. If you have a good leakage current tester you should check the original caps.

Well the problem is I didn't think this thing was going to be full of rubber wiring, I just thought maybe it was going to be old crumbly cloth wiring which would of been a little bit easier to replace than old rubber wire.

The strange thing about the rubber wire in this set is that it looks almost like the rubber wiring in this set just melted at some point in time from being stored in a hot location like an attic and then the rubber hardened afterwards which caused the wires rubber insulation to "weld" together.

Also the rubber grommets did the same thing, they melted and then hardened up and the rubber insulation from the wires that were going through those grommets became part of the grommets.

As for the capacitors the only capacitors I see in this unit are 3 block capacitors that are mounted to the underside of the tuner chassis 2 of them of which are 2 section caps that have one section soldered to the metal housing of the can and the third one is utilizing both sections.

as for the grid leak resistors, there are 2 of them total, one is a 2 Meg unit that measures around 2.8 Meg, and the other one is an unknown value as the paper label that told the value of the resistor is partially missing, and when I tried to get a reading from that resistor I couldn't get a solid reading from it, it measured anywhere from 500k to 22 Meg but it wouldn't settle on a specific value.

When I looked up this radio online it said this was a Neutrodyne TRF Set, but when I looked at the chassis closer it appears to have IF transformers with trimmer condensers on the top of the chassis which I didn't think that TRF Sets used IF cans or Adjustment trimmers, the way this set is set up it reminds me more of an early Superheterodyne set.

Also what's the purpose of the rotating coil that's attached to the left knob?

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Rubber wiring sucks. If I know a set has it I tend to think twice about getting it as rewiring an entire radio is a pain...it's uncommon for a large amount of rubber wiring to be used in a 20s set.

If riders isn't helpful look for a Beitmans covering 20s sets. They were a competitor to riders and one of the only second sources of literature for sets that old.

Some 20s sets the wax paper caps used as coupling, bypass and as B+ filters (lytics weren't used much back then) go bad and others they are fine...I don't know that brand well enough to say which it's likely to be. If you have a good leakage current tester you should check the original caps.

Look under Riders National Carbon model 20. It's on the same page showing models 1,2,3.
Dave

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

Look under Riders National Carbon model 20. It's on the same page showing models 1,2,3.
Dave

I looked there. Didn't have much luck with it. It seems to be incomplete.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

I looked there. Didn't have much luck with it. It seems to be incomplete.

Take a look at American Bosch model 28. I'm pretty sure Bosch made those for Eveready. http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/767/M0040767.htm

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Take a look at American Bosch model 28. I'm pretty sure Bosch made those for Eveready. http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/767/M0040767.htm

Yep, took a look at that and it sure was the same unit, the Eveready version of the service information was missing quite a bit of helpful information including the parts listing and the information about the transformer and the "filter can" assembly and how to service them, and the rest of the resistors and capacitors and their values.

So as far as the Filter Can assembly goes, since it was meant to be removed and replaced as a whole assembly I'm assuming that in order to replace the old filter capacitors I would need to just cut out the old filter caps and just solder new capacitors onto where the old capacitors that were in the filter can soldered to?

Also I'm going to assume the original Filter Choke is more than likely fine yet so it should be fine to leave that in circuit am I correct?

As for the old filter capacitors go, I'm assuming I should just go with 450V Caps to be on the safe side since they didn't specify a voltage in the service information?

Also I see the 3 Meg Grid Leak Resistor in the parts list, but I don't see the second fuse looking resistor that was on top of the chassis listed in the parts list, unless I'm missing something...

Thanks for your help.

Edit: I figured out what that second fuse style resistor is on the top of the radio chassis, its the 50,000 Ohm (50k Ohm) Plate Resistor which measures open and I searched eBay and couldn't find anything.
I know of someone who might have the part (its an older gentleman who goes by Glasslinger on YouTube, who works on these old 1920s vintage TRF sets all the time) but I'm not sure how to go about contacting him and or if he would even be willing to send me one of his resistors if he had one.

[Kevin Kuehn]

How about leave the defective 50k above chassis for originality, snip the wiring below and add a modern replacement under chassis? It's no more sacrilegious than changing caps. The filter choke, who knows, you'll find out if it's good once you trace the wiring or fire the set up under load. These things are so old that the copper wire used had impurities along with not so good insulating varnish which allows the wire to oxidize and corrode open over time. Same issues with the stage coupling transformers. The finer wire winding's are most subject to corroding open.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

How about leave the defective 50k above chassis for originality, snip the wiring below and add a modern replacement under chassis? It's no more sacrilegious than changing caps. The filter choke, who knows, you'll find out if it's good once you trace the wiring or fire the set up under load. These things are so old that the copper wire used had impurities along with not so good insulating varnish which allows the wire to oxidize and corrode open over time. Same issues with the stage coupling transformers. The finer wire winding's are most subject to corroding open.

Ok, thanks! I might just do that. What wattage should I use for that plate resistor? They didn't specify a wattage in the service manual.

Also if the filter choke is bad, could I just replace that with a resistor?

Thanks.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

How about leave the defective 50k above chassis for originality, snip the wiring below and add a modern replacement under chassis? It's no more sacrilegious than changing caps. The filter choke, who knows, you'll find out if it's good once you trace the wiring or fire the set up under load. These things are so old that the copper wire used had impurities along with not so good insulating varnish which allows the wire to oxidize and corrode open over time. Same issues with the stage coupling transformers. The finer wire winding's are most subject to corroding open.

Some of those plug in fuse like grid bias resistors I've seen gutted and the ends attached to a hollow tube with a modern resistor inside. Either approach is valid and which to choose depends on how much of a stickler for originality you are and/or how much time and effort you want to spend.