Late 1920s Eveready Model 1 TRF Set need info

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Rubber wiring sucks. If I know a set has it I tend to think twice about getting it as rewiring an entire radio is a pain...it's uncommon for a large amount of rubber wiring to be used in a 20s set.

If riders isn't helpful look for a Beitmans covering 20s sets. They were a competitor to riders and one of the only second sources of literature for sets that old.

Some 20s sets the wax paper caps used as coupling, bypass and as B+ filters (lytics weren't used much back then) go bad and others they are fine...I don't know that brand well enough to say which it's likely to be. If you have a good leakage current tester you should check the original caps.

Look under Riders National Carbon model 20. It's on the same page showing models 1,2,3.
Dave

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

Look under Riders National Carbon model 20. It's on the same page showing models 1,2,3.
Dave

I looked there. Didn't have much luck with it. It seems to be incomplete.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

I looked there. Didn't have much luck with it. It seems to be incomplete.

Take a look at American Bosch model 28. I'm pretty sure Bosch made those for Eveready. http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/767/M0040767.htm

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Take a look at American Bosch model 28. I'm pretty sure Bosch made those for Eveready. http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/767/M0040767.htm

Yep, took a look at that and it sure was the same unit, the Eveready version of the service information was missing quite a bit of helpful information including the parts listing and the information about the transformer and the "filter can" assembly and how to service them, and the rest of the resistors and capacitors and their values.

So as far as the Filter Can assembly goes, since it was meant to be removed and replaced as a whole assembly I'm assuming that in order to replace the old filter capacitors I would need to just cut out the old filter caps and just solder new capacitors onto where the old capacitors that were in the filter can soldered to?

Also I'm going to assume the original Filter Choke is more than likely fine yet so it should be fine to leave that in circuit am I correct?

As for the old filter capacitors go, I'm assuming I should just go with 450V Caps to be on the safe side since they didn't specify a voltage in the service information?

Also I see the 3 Meg Grid Leak Resistor in the parts list, but I don't see the second fuse looking resistor that was on top of the chassis listed in the parts list, unless I'm missing something...

Thanks for your help.

Edit: I figured out what that second fuse style resistor is on the top of the radio chassis, its the 50,000 Ohm (50k Ohm) Plate Resistor which measures open and I searched eBay and couldn't find anything.
I know of someone who might have the part (its an older gentleman who goes by Glasslinger on YouTube, who works on these old 1920s vintage TRF sets all the time) but I'm not sure how to go about contacting him and or if he would even be willing to send me one of his resistors if he had one.

[Kevin Kuehn]

How about leave the defective 50k above chassis for originality, snip the wiring below and add a modern replacement under chassis? It's no more sacrilegious than changing caps. The filter choke, who knows, you'll find out if it's good once you trace the wiring or fire the set up under load. These things are so old that the copper wire used had impurities along with not so good insulating varnish which allows the wire to oxidize and corrode open over time. Same issues with the stage coupling transformers. The finer wire winding's are most subject to corroding open.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

How about leave the defective 50k above chassis for originality, snip the wiring below and add a modern replacement under chassis? It's no more sacrilegious than changing caps. The filter choke, who knows, you'll find out if it's good once you trace the wiring or fire the set up under load. These things are so old that the copper wire used had impurities along with not so good insulating varnish which allows the wire to oxidize and corrode open over time. Same issues with the stage coupling transformers. The finer wire winding's are most subject to corroding open.

Ok, thanks! I might just do that. What wattage should I use for that plate resistor? They didn't specify a wattage in the service manual.

Also if the filter choke is bad, could I just replace that with a resistor?

Thanks.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Ok, thanks! I might just do that. What wattage should I use for that plate resistor? They didn't specify a wattage in the service manual.

Also if the filter choke is bad, could I just replace that with a resistor?

Thanks.

Half watt should be more than enough. You could use a resistor but you won't get as much filtering with the stock value capacitors.

Here's an interesting post from over on ARF.

https://antiqueradios.com/forums/vie...hp?f=6&t=72312

Towards the end is an explanation of how to neutralize the set(as in Neutradyne). Good to know since the manufacture didn't include it in the Riders service literature. Actually they probably did include that process in a more complete service manual available to their dealers.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

How about leave the defective 50k above chassis for originality, snip the wiring below and add a modern replacement under chassis? It's no more sacrilegious than changing caps. The filter choke, who knows, you'll find out if it's good once you trace the wiring or fire the set up under load. These things are so old that the copper wire used had impurities along with not so good insulating varnish which allows the wire to oxidize and corrode open over time. Same issues with the stage coupling transformers. The finer wire winding's are most subject to corroding open.

Some of those plug in fuse like grid bias resistors I've seen gutted and the ends attached to a hollow tube with a modern resistor inside. Either approach is valid and which to choose depends on how much of a stickler for originality you are and/or how much time and effort you want to spend.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Some of those plug in fuse like grid bias resistors I've seen gutted and the ends attached to a hollow tube with a modern resistor inside. Either approach is valid and which to choose depends on how much of a stickler for originality you are and/or how much time and effort you want to spend.

I have no idea how I would go about gutting this fuse style resistor without breaking it.

Also I did take a look over at Playthings of the Past's Website and they seem to have what I'm looking for resistor wise (the glass fuse style resistors) but I didn't see any in the 50,000 Ohm rating so I shot the owner a message to see if he could look through his glass resistor stash to see if he had any that were rated for 50,000 Ohms. I'm waiting to hear back from him yet (I sent him a message at 10 o'clock this morning and it is the weekend so I may not hear back until next week sometime).