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#1
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Quote:
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#2
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0.5uF 200V, just like the old paper one that was there before it. I've also been very weary about bulk replacements of parts, as it didn't go well with my RCA Victor console TV.
Last edited by rca21d645; 01-23-2021 at 07:43 PM. |
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#3
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If that's the .5uf that returns the bottom end of the horizontal yoke winding to B+ I'd put something in there rated for high ripple current and more like 600-1000 volts. Ideally a physically large cap that can dissipate some heat. That little mini box cap didn't stand a chance with the high AC current flowing in that circuit.
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#4
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#5
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I've been doing a bit more testing and just noticed something even stranger, the brightness knob seems to be working backwards now, the higher I turn it the darker the picture gets. I've also noticed the tube have brief flashes where it goes bright then turns off, I think this might mean the picture tube is internally shorting, but I'm not sure. It usually goes back to normal if I lightly wack the side of the tube.
Last edited by rca21d645; 01-24-2021 at 09:24 PM. |
| Audiokarma |
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#6
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Why are you looking for a ceramic cap to replace a paper? A film would be the usual choice.
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#7
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The Sams photo shows a rather large capacitor for a unit rated at 200 volts. I bet the original cap was an oil capacitor like some of the old coupling caps used in the electrostatic sets.
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#8
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I miss spoke, I did find a film capacitor to replace it.
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#9
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.5uf @ 200v was a physically big cap back in 1948-49. My 20Z1 parts chassis has a Cornell Dubilier Grey Tiger in that posisiton, nothing special do you think? Rule of thumb - if it's overheating you need more surface area = higher voltage modern cap
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