1968 Zenith 20Y1C50 chassis - advice needed

[zeno]

Yes it would be L53 but this one dont have the cap. That was a few yrs
later.

If think the DGS is stuck on just unplug the 2 red wires & put a jumper on the chassis pins. Thats usually just a broken thermistor.

For focus take the rear cover & door of the FBT cage off. There is a focus
stick & high ohm resistors & odds and ends back there. Stick is most likely.
then resistor. Sometimes the board will carbon up & arc. If any resistors are burned change the stick also.

The 95 V problem makes no sense. If the stage it feeds is dead it could go up
but besides the focus the sets running pretty good. Could be a mistake in Sams or a its mis wired.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[JohnCT]

In addition to the focus rect stick and carbon tracking on the flyback phenolic that Zeno mentioned, you might have an internal arc gap carbonized inside the CRT socket. If you have good hearing, remove the socket and put your ear *close* to the socket and see if you can hear any internal arcing.

John

[joe111671]

Originally Posted by zeno

If think the DGS is stuck on just unplug the 2 red wires & put a jumper on the chassis pins. Thats usually just a broken thermistor.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

You nailed it Zeno. The thermistor was not only broken, it was gone. For now I twisted the leads together, gave it some solder and cured that.

Originally Posted by JohnCT

In addition to the focus rect stick and carbon tracking on the flyback phenolic that Zeno mentioned, you might have an internal arc gap carbonized inside the CRT socket. If you have good hearing, remove the socket and put your ear *close* to the socket and see if you can hear any internal arcing.

John

Thanks for the input on the focus, guys. I'll tackle that as soon as I can figure out where to mount the replacement caps. They're still jumpered in, and the set is sitting on its side till they're put in properly. I haven't figured out a good place to mount them without removing the chassis.