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#1
03-04-2021, 07:48 AM
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That dirty blue wire on the electrolytic cap is just fugly, if someone is gonna use a radial capacitor like that, they should heatshrink and not use crappy wire.
That 180 ohm 1w resistor looks like it was replaced, but did a very poor job trimming the leads, and why use 10% when much better tol film ones are out there? Or were they not around that much when they did this?
__________________
=^-^= Yasashii yoru ni hitori utau uta. Asu wa kimi to utaou. Yume no tsubasa ni notte. いとおしい人のために 
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#2
03-04-2021, 09:24 AM
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The smaller yellowish disc cap with the squarish extension on it that is located to the left of the group of red HV disc caps, has a spark gap built in. As far as I know those spark gap disc caps appeared in color TVs in the late 1960s. They were for circuit protection and are out of place in this TV.
I get the impression that the person that did the work got his parts at a surplus store. Low cost but you have to choose what the store happens to have.
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#3
03-04-2021, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
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#4
03-06-2021, 09:03 AM
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Its quite OK to use HV ceramic caps for the coupling to the deflection plates.
If using tthe rated voltage use three of the rated value in poarallel, if using twice the voltage, use just two. I've done that and it works fine. I have that type Sencore. Did you use the 68 volt setting on cutoff and the "scope" setting for type? I've used that on electrostatic scope tubes, electrostatic TV tubes, as well as iconoscopes and an image orthicon and it works fine for cutoff. Sometimes modestly low emission is OK. If a slight increase in filament voltage gives good emission you'll be at least passable. Last edited by dtvmcdonald; 03-06-2021 at 09:18 AM.
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