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  #1  
Old 11-21-2021, 10:17 PM
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dtvmcdonald dtvmcdonald is offline
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I would use a 150 or 180 uF 200 volt cap rated at 105C from Nichicon
or United Chemi-con from Mouser or Digikey (radial leads). At AES a value of 150, 180, or 220 uF at 200 to 450 volts will do as well. These days capacitors are voltage rated
a bit differently than in olden times and its a bit better to go higher in voltage rating if available (i.e. it seems OK to use a 450 or 500 volt cap if the old one was).

As a filter cap it is non-critical value ... in the old days they were usually rated at -50+100% value tolerance!
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:30 PM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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OK, thanks, I was wondering about that but I wasn't sure, which is why I asked.

Also it turns out I wasted $15 (actually $30 if you count the fact that I ordered the wrong photofact the first time around over at Sam's because for some weird reason the Sam's Index didn't show the 16Y20U Chassis in it anywhere) because it turns out I actually had an original physical copy of the Sam's for the Zenith "Bugeye" TV in my Sam's Photofact stash.
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Old 11-22-2021, 03:19 PM
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zeno zeno is offline
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If one of the caps is mounted on an insulator its the doubler cap.
You must use a 105 deg or it will puke out mung & fail in a short time.
Its OK to sub in for testing but the 105 needs to go in eventually.
Most new 'lytics come in the following.
1mfd, 2.2, 3.3, 4.7, 10, 22, 33, 47, 100mfd etc
Sub a little over the mfd if need be. The new caps wont be cans.
Pick up some terminal strips to mount them & be sure to cut out
the old cans, not leaving them in circuit.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
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Old 11-22-2021, 03:31 PM
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init4fun init4fun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
.... it will puke out mung...
Yep, seen "The Exorcist" back in the 1970's, , , Now there's a great mental image for a leaking capacitor for ya
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Old 11-22-2021, 04:14 PM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
If one of the caps is mounted on an insulator its the doubler cap.
You must use a 105 deg or it will puke out mung & fail in a short time.
Its OK to sub in for testing but the 105 needs to go in eventually.
Most new 'lytics come in the following.
1mfd, 2.2, 3.3, 4.7, 10, 22, 33, 47, 100mfd etc
Sub a little over the mfd if need be. The new caps wont be cans.
Pick up some terminal strips to mount them & be sure to cut out
the old cans, not leaving them in circuit.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
Yes there's one single value can mounted on an insulator in the TV its a 140 MFD 150 VDC capacitor.

The rest of the capacitors are mounted straight to the chassis. So what is it about the voltage doubler circuit that it needs to have a high temp. rated capacitor in that spot?
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Old 11-24-2021, 10:52 AM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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So does anyone have a spare power switch/volume control for my 23" Zenith?

The reason why I'm asking is because one of the terminals on my switch/volume control broke off (the ground terminal) its a 2 Meg volume pot with a 1 Meg tap and the shaft is about 3¼" long.

See pictures below for the part number and so you can see what the switch assembly looks like.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Zenith Power Switch.jpg (58.7 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg Zenith Power Switch 2.jpg (114.1 KB, 23 views)

Last edited by vortalexfan; 11-24-2021 at 10:59 AM.
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  #7  
Old 11-24-2021, 12:59 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vortalexfan View Post
So does anyone have a spare power switch/volume control for my 23" Zenith?

The reason why I'm asking is because one of the terminals on my switch/volume control broke off (the ground terminal) its a 2 Meg volume pot with a 1 Meg tap and the shaft is about 3¼" long.

See pictures below for the part number and so you can see what the switch assembly looks like.
You should be able to solder a wire on the remaining terminal.
You removed the pot, so it's a little easier.
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