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Old 01-10-2022, 10:23 PM
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Tube TV Tube TV is offline
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Yeah having no 12A7 would stop it dead in it's tracks. One half of it is the rectifier, and the other half is the amp.

The inside of yours is identical to how I remember mine right down to the blue electrolytics.
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Old 01-10-2022, 10:31 PM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tube TV View Post
Yeah having no 12A7 would stop it dead in it's tracks. One half of it is the rectifier, and the other half is the amp.

The inside of yours is identical to how I remember mine right down to the blue electrolytics.
That's a good sign, that means it hasn't been fiddled around with much over the years. I ordered a 12A7 earlier today, so it should be here by Friday hopefully.
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Old 01-10-2022, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by vortalexfan View Post
That's a good sign, that means it hasn't been fiddled around with much over the years. I ordered a 12A7 earlier today, so it should be here by Friday hopefully.
The only thing that does look a bit out of place is the big green power resistor that is below the push button switches.

Looks like it was changed. Seems kind of strange that there's no spaghetti and such long bare leads traveling across a metal switch.
Otherwise everthing looks the same as how I remember mine.

There's a big wax paper in there that need to be accurate. 2.4 mfd. 60 v. This is part of the bridge capacitors for comparing your cap under test in that range.
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Old 01-11-2022, 04:01 AM
vortalexfan vortalexfan is offline
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Originally Posted by Tube TV View Post
The only thing that does look a bit out of place is the big green power resistor that is below the push button switches.

Looks like it was changed. Seems kind of strange that there's no spaghetti and such long bare leads traveling across a metal switch.
Otherwise everthing looks the same as how I remember mine.

There's a big wax paper in there that need to be accurate. 2.4 mfd. 60 v. This is part of the bridge capacitors for comparing your cap under test in that range.
I'll check into that when it arrives. It was just mailed out, so it should be coming hopefully the same day as the tube.

Is that resistor supposed to be there?

As for the 2.4 uF 60 V cap, I saw that in the parts list in the manual you sent me, and I was trying to figure out if that was a paper or an electrolytic cap, apparently it's a paper cap by the sounds of it.

Does value of the replacement cap for the 2.4 uF 60 V cap have to be exactly the same as the original? I'm asking because I know that that exact value isn't made anymore, because 2.2 uF is a more common replacement value today.
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