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#1
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MOST of the times on SS sets the cathode is where the video comes in.
Voltages will stay about the same otherwise. There is a video output transistor ( 3 on color CRT's). If the brightness is increased the voltage on the C voltage goes down. If you turn the brite all the way up the C voltage goes up to the B+ value. No raster results. SO if you get a good pix after the sub brite adj either that pot has a bad spot or something is "off". For the SM if the set has an FCC ID number or "type acceptance" number look it up at FCC.GOV That will list the MFG of the actual builder & its model number. Take it from there. 73 Zeno ![]() LFOD ! |
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#2
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Quote:
So I am wondering that if the G2 is 628V at the socket, and G1 is -2V in order to produce an image, then the CRT is basically toast? If not, what else could account for the need to crank the G1 (brightness and sub bright) in order to get an image? I can easily use this monitor as is, but know there is something wrong and that drives me crazy. I looked up the FCC stuff and it notes it as being a CRT type device, but goes no further. Doesn't provide enough to find a service manual or other usable specs.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
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