Sylvania Superset Update

[TrllVl90]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

B+ is basically a universal electronics term for the power supply voltage(s).

It dates back to the tube battery radio era. Back then the heaters would be powered by an A battery, the plates would be powered by a B battery and the grids would be biased by a C battery. Eventually they figured out how to make the B battery bias the grids with resistors, then they figured out how to make AC power supplies do the work of batteries (causing battery radio bonfires in many cities in the late 20s), but the A and B designations stuck...A fell out of use with the transistor and certain solid state devices started using VCC, VDD, VBB and or supply design voltage as designations, but B+, and B- are still in common use, and far from dead.

Your useless trivia lesson for the day...

Not completely useless, definitely interesting.

[zeno]

Tom gives a good run down on B+. One of the terms you will CONSTANTLY see
used here. If you look at any little radio the battery is the B+ source.
On your set odds are the heater is NOT the problem. If the G-2 is
set right look at this:

The pix is bad when the set is cold but gets better with time.
The pix improves with reduced brightness & contrast.
Thats all assuming the 200 V DC for the three video outputs is good.
At this point a manual would be needed. Any NAP chassis will work if
a close match ( C-5, C-6 etc. ).

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[TrllVl90]

Originally Posted by zeno

Tom gives a good run down on B+. One of the terms you will CONSTANTLY see
used here. If you look at any little radio the battery is the B+ source.
On your set odds are the heater is NOT the problem. If the G-2 is
set right look at this:

The pix is bad when the set is cold but gets better with time.
The pix improves with reduced brightness & contrast.
Thats all assuming the 200 V DC for the three video outputs is good.
At this point a manual would be needed. Any NAP chassis will work if
a close match ( C-5, C-6 etc. ).

73 Zeno
LFOD !

Both things you suggeted is right. The picture is worse at the beginning, but gets better over time; and the picture is a little clearer during dark scenes (and turning down brightness/contrast. I set it at 2/3 contrast, almost 0 brightess, since that gave me a decent picture, and the brightness isn't necessary to see anything.) Not to say that at any point the picture is terrible, just a bit blurry. ALSO I set the Color pot to like 2/3 as well. All the way up is way too much color to me.

I have the appropriate manual for this TV + Chassis, unfortunately it's over the file size limit, and even making a compressed file leaves it over the limit. I'll have to find an alternative way to share it.

If anyone else has a smaller file manual, it's a 26C8 Chassis.

Edit: I haven't checked the G2 yet, but this is what it's doing at its current settings.