2000 RCA Entertainment Series 27" console model G27647 problem

[pac.attack76]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

Sound problems other that corrupt eeproms are uncommon in these. For the heck of it, did you verify the speaker itself?

The 169s had issues with leaky caps making the boards conductive and upsetting the audio output ICs causing int sound, squeaks, squeals, and no sound, but I never saw any later RCAs do that, but on the other hand, these are another ten years older, so...

John

No but I have thought about it. I'll get one tomorrow for and put it in there to see if it'll work.

[pac.attack76]

I've yet to try the audio on this thing. I have a pair of speakers from another set I will try. I've been thinking about the whole focus issue lately. It doesn't start messing up till it warms up. Could it be caps and which ones? I'm thinking on changing some out.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by pac.attack76

I've been thinking about the whole focus issue lately. It doesn't start messing up till it warms up. Could it be caps and which ones? I'm thinking on changing some out.

I doubt it's a cap. That type of focus error (absent of any other picture symptoms) is going to come down to a bad flyback, a bad CRT socket, or a bad tube.

In the order of probability, I'd put the socket first, tube second, flyback third.

John

[pac.attack76]

So the part of the board that slides onto the pins of the tube. Can I check that in any way? I know this thing has some hours on it. Counter says 65000. And I just found out that left speaker was bad. Changed it out with another and is working now.

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by pac.attack76

Can I check that in any way?

Not easily (pics?)

The problem is that many of these develop a green coating inside the socket assy that becomes resistive (not measurable) over time and humidity.

Back when they were new, we'd order a new socket. When they got harder to find, I'd take them apart. They're usually held together with melted plastic posts. I would drill them out and carefully separate the front and back half.

if there was green (or worse) tracking between the Focus pin and the ground pins (there's a built in arc-gap in there), I would get a Dremel and carefully grind out the contamination like a dentist would remove tooth decay. Clean with IPA and dry well.

If it was repairable, I'd reassemble with a couple of well placed drops of RTV where the plastic posts were drilled out.

John

[pac.attack76]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

Not easily (pics?)

The problem is that many of these develop a green coating inside the socket assy that becomes resistive (not measurable) over time and humidity.

Back when they were new, we'd order a new socket. When they got harder to find, I'd take them apart. They're usually held together with melted plastic posts. I would drill them out and carefully separate the front and back half.

if there was green (or worse) tracking between the Focus pin and the ground pins (there's a built in arc-gap in there), I would get a Dremel and carefully grind out the contamination like a dentist would remove tooth decay. Clean with IPA and dry well.

If it was repairable, I'd reassemble with a couple of well placed drops of RTV where the plastic posts were drilled out.

John

Oh nice work. You want pics of the screen or the socket? Probably the socket....

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by pac.attack76

Oh nice work. You want pics of the screen or the socket? Probably the socket....

There's a chance I may have that socket. Give me a couple of days to check through my buried pile of old crap.

There's also a chance that the cover over the focus pin may be removable by unsnapping the little fingers that hold it together. If I can't find a socket, we'll try looking under the hood so to speak.

John