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#1
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The Sams gives voltages for the 12” version but I used them as a reference anyway. The cathode is supposed to be 365v DC and I’ve got 345v. G2 should be 100v and I’ve got 210v. When I was fishing to see if I could find a place to check G1, I found a 0.1uf cap connected between the lead going to the CRT and a coil had broken off of its solder tab. Of course at that moment I had to go upstairs and shut down for the night but I’m hoping that solves the issue. We’ll see. I wonder if the loss of that cap in the circuit could have led to the G2 voltage doubling?
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#2
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These voltages are not correct. I read:
Pin 2, g1 .2 volt Pin 10, g2 320 volts Pin 11, cathode 0 to 110 volts varies with brightness control setting. jr |
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#3
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Can I ask where you found those voltages because, as I said, the sams has voltages for the 12KP4 but not the 10BP4. Also, is that voltage for G1 0.2 volts?
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#4
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Quote:
http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/g...sams_125-7.pdf It may not be absolutely correct for your set, but the CRT voltages are close. jr |
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#5
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The Riders for the 805 chassis (also at the ETM site) has multiple versions of the TV by chassis revision and I think I found the correct specs and schematic for my chassis. It's an 805 U chassis having a cathode voltage of 340V, G1 at 110V and G2 at 25V. There is a note for the G2 voltage saying it's measured on a 50V scale (I'm assuming on a VTVM?) but that's just going to make he reading more precise on the old voltage meter correct?
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| Audiokarma |
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#6
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I must have the T or S version because this is exactly what I have. C269 is the capacitor that broke off its solder tab on the L258 coil side. Pin 10 is supposed to be 340V and I have 345V. Pin 11 is supposed to be 110V and I have 210V. Could the broken C269 capacitor solder joint account for the voltage being 100V higher on pin 11?
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#7
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Quote:
jr |
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