Panasonic CT-1310M keeps blowing horizontal output transistor

[luRaichu]

Originally Posted by zeno

1) THOROUGHLY clean up tape mess

Did that, plus I recapped the TV yesterday. While recapping I found both 4.7uf caps had leaked. The one in the HOT circuit leaked so bad, one of the legs had disintegrated. I'm 99.9% sure THIS bad cap was the reason the HOT kept blowing!!


After the recap. Unfortunately as it turns out a few of these are actually bipolar, so I couldn't replace them as I didn't order any bipolar caps. Should I be worried about them?
They're marked "BP" in the image

I also got the mica insulators today but I still don't really have proper hardware for a bulb tester. Is it necessary?

[Alex KL-1]

Excellent!

About the bulb jig... is to be at safe side, due to incertainty about the flyback and PSU, to save potential HOT.

Is really possible to one of these subbed parts or the mica/tape being the culprit, but since is impossible in practice to test a flyback with DMM's, is important to consider the possibility.

Some wires, a bulb and it's socket is all needed.

Anyway, if you are very curious and wants to see it working ASAP:

Make sure to measure the PSU (the +B for HOT) at switch on with DMM already connected, to see if PSU is throwing too much voltage and promptly turning off the TV if is the case. IF the flyback is the culprit, the HOT will shorts again (so, some spare HOT is needed for this).

Late note: in fact, these bulbs are saved a lot of HOT and other parts for technicians using it, including myself.

[luRaichu]

Originally Posted by Alex KL-1

Excellent!

About the bulb jig... is to be at safe side, due to incertainty about the flyback and PSU, to save potential HOT.

Is really possible to one of these subbed parts or the mica/tape being the culprit, but since is impossible in practice to test a flyback with DMM's, is important to consider the possibility.

Some wires, a bulb and it's socket is all needed.

Anyway, if you are very curious and wants to see it working ASAP:

Make sure to measure the PSU (the +B for HOT) at switch on with DMM already connected, to see if PSU is throwing too much voltage and promptly turning off the TV if is the case. IF the flyback is the culprit, the HOT will shorts again (so, some spare HOT is needed for this).

Late note: in fact, these bulbs are saved a lot of HOT and other parts for technicians using it, including myself.

I already measured +B. it sits around 133V at the lowest setting but you can crank it up to 140V

[Alex KL-1]

Originally Posted by luRaichu

I already measured +B. it sits around 133V at the lowest setting but you can crank it up to 140V

Is good to find the service manual or schematic with voltages, to be sure. For some TV's, 133V is fine, for others, is a lot (some works with "only" 90V; and I have one with 190V!).