Got a lead on an early DuMont TV locally

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Is there any way to modify this set to get it to work with a picture tube that isn't of the metal cone variety?

There's several points Jeff is off on but, instead of poking holes I'm going to approach this as a rough how to guide.

When it comes to magnetic deflection CRTs the guns and bases were basically all the same between 1946 and 57. Ignoring glass cone VS Metal (which is more of a mechanical mounting and HV lead conversion process) there's 3 major things to consider in selecting an all glass replacement:
1.) Deflection angle: there were 3 main angles in that era ~60 degrees, ~90 Degrees, and ~110 degrees. Use the datasheet to figure out what angle your tube has and what your replacement candidates are. There were some in-between angles too. Jumping from a 60 to a 90 isn't a great idea but a 72 could probably work in either of the previous 2 angles.
2.) Focus type: some tubes are magnetic focus and others are magnetic. It's easiest to use a tube of the same type, but you can work around it by adding or deleting a purpose built focus magnet and sometimes adding focus voltage taps.
3.) screen size: you can technically fit any size CRT of the same deflection angle and focus type right into a set and make it work. Some companies used the same chassis without any changes to drive a 10BP4, 12LP4 or a 16AP4 (there were even some larger compatible tubes) depending on what screen size model was being made.... However if doing a modification and using the original mask you need something that fills the mask but fits the cabinet. A 24" tube in a 16" cabinet isn't going to work and a 10" tube in a 16" cabinet will look wrong.... Besides the obvious there can be issues with different dimensions between the neck shoulder and screen requiring the yoke mounting brackets to be moved, and a glass bell flaring out wider than a metal one and interfering with the chassis...

These are all problems that will vary widely depending on the model and tube you want to pair up. Most are not insurmountable, but picking the most compatible tube possible is important for minimizing headaches.

[Alex KL-1]

Absolutely well pointed by Electronic_M. Using same logic I subbed the CRT of a '60 Brazilian Admiral for another brand and model CRT. Paying attention to mechanical drawings and electrical limits/deflection angle (most are 110 or 114 degrees from that era).

[Jeff]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

There's several points Jeff is off on