Root's 1969 Zenith 14Z8C50 Restoration & Troubleshooting Thread (Help Wanted!)

[old_coot88]

It's also called the 'horz linearity' coil. If you're lucky enuff to find an NOS replacement, by all means go for it! When replacing it (or doing a rewind), it MUST be 'dipped', that is, tuned for lowest cathode current in the horz output tube. You open the cathode leg and insert a millimeter, and tune the coil for the lowest 'dip'.

Failure of this coil was the Achilles heel of Zenith color sets, with the exception of the old roundies which used a brown phenolic form that wasn't prone to cracking. I would never buy a Zenith without first ascertaining that this coil is intact.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

It's also called the 'horz linearity' coil. If you're lucky enuff to find an NOS replacement, by all means go for it! When replacing it (or doing a rewind), it MUST be 'dipped', that is, tuned for lowest cathode current in the horz output tube. You open the cathode leg and insert a millimeter, and tune the coil for the lowest 'dip'.

Failure of this coil was the Achilles heel of Zenith color sets, with the exception of the old roundies which used a brown phenolic form that wasn't prone to cracking. I would never buy a Zenith without first ascertaining that this coil is intact.

I've got enough spare Zenith convergence boards that use coils that use the same form that I'm confident I could strip the winding off one and wind the line coil onto a replacement form.