My first rescue, Sharp 13MM17

[zenith2134]

Yes, that is a common model but makes a great picture. An example of a cheap set which really held up well over the years. Made in Malaysia, 1987-1988.

There was a chassis revision at the end of the run which used a different flyback---the flyback was the weak point of this chassis.

I've owned at least 3 examples of this set, including one from a fellow VKer where he built a VHS deck into the cabinet.

The CRT is either sourced from Goldstar or Toshiba. I have seen both in this model.

I wouldn't worry much about those filter capacitors unless they're swollen or leaky. I'd be more concerned about going over all the solder joints and reflowing any marginal ones. High heat areas would be around the regulator, horizontal out, and the flyback. Also check the neckboard and touch up the grayscale, and clean the rgb pots there. Standard practice for this era. Then focus it up and enjoy it. They last.

[Davros]

Thanks for the starting point!

I'll plan on a good blowing out, look for bad solder joints, and clean the pots with deoxit.

Is there any way to see what flyback I have, and anything I can do to protect it as much as possible?

I'm not 100% sure, but if I was a betting man I'd say the flyback was either replaced or was worked on at some point. Its the only item on the board with dried up flux around the solder joints. There's not a trace anywhere buy the flyback.

Also, are there any repair manuals for this other than the Sams? If ai need one, ill get it, but if not even better.

Marc

[zenith2134]

I'm not surprised that it's been replaced. The 19" version was even harder on the flyback; it may have been the same part as the 13" (certainly the same size transformer), and was further stressed.

My 13MM17 is in storage now, and I see service manuals for this model online.

Not sure why you'd really need it except out of sheer curiosity. Not much to adjust on these. I guess a good tuner cleaning would help if it seems to need it.