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#1
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This looks like the same model I have. I just pulled it out the other day. I had previously replaced a few of the caps in the vertical circuit due to insufficient height but it still wasn't right. I had to pull the chassis loose and replace one more and that did it. Unfortunately the crt on mine isn't real strong. With the normal/fringe switch turned to, I think, normal, the faces tend to go shiny and negative. The tube chart has the crt # crossed out and another one written in so I guess it was swapped, but that was long enough ago for the replacement to wear out as well. I've heard these were "motel specials" and I'm pretty sure mine is. Anyway, for no more than I use it I can't complain.
I wouldn't worry about the fusible resistor unless it goes bad. I got my set cheap because the old one was shot. I had rigged up something with some new resistors but then I found a NOS part.
__________________
Bryan |
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#2
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Wes:
On the 10L43, vertical problems usually come from: Bad .0015 at 1KV - feedback cap Bad .1 at 400 volt - coupling cap Bad 6DR7 Tube Bad Height Pot Bad Vert Lin control Bad .0068 at 400 volts - discharge cap Bad .022 at 400 volts - Buffer Bad 30 6030-7 RC Integrator network Bad 1.5 meg plate resistor Bad 30-6509-1 coupling network Bad 100K 1Watt resistor - Buffer Bad Tube socket In the order listed Leave the fuse as is. When it goes bad, you'll know. Clean the tuner with any standard tuner cleaner. Just spray it in , rotate the tuner a few times and let it dry. Aim for the switch contacts. Lube the tuner detent with Lubriplate or a small amount of white grease. Don |
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#3
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I was bit by the video lead when I restored my Predicta barberpole ( http://antiqueradio.org/philc12.htm ).
Looks like you're making good progress. I would definitely replace all remaining paper/plastic/electrolytic caps while you have it apart. There's nothing I hate more than having a "restored" set conk out because I was lazy the first time around. |
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