Can you ID this RCA?

[Cory]

Hey guys, just picked this one up today along with some B&W goodies posted at the other forum. Any idea what year it is? I haven't even powered it up yet, but those cataracts will have to go. The front panel has an interesting door that folds down about 75 degrees to allow you to adjust tint and color, the face of those knobs are then visible through cutouts on the door. Weird.

I know, nothing as fancy as the roundies, but it's better than nothin'

[Cory]

And the rear- Found this price tag inside too...$234.95

[rca2000]

That looks like a ctc-25, which would make it a 67,or '68 model rca.It has solid state audio(that big sink near the transformer). I know rca used solid state audio in the ctc-25, 21, and 30. It could be a ctc30 also. I think the ctc-21 was uesd with remote sets.

The rest of the set is typical late 60s's rca, with standard 6je6 h.out ckt, and the like, and probanly a 25xp22 pix.

[Charlie]

Cory,

nice lookin set. hopefully it will play well with little effort.

[jstout66]

I'm thinking that ones gotta be a CTC-25 because of the tuner lay-out. RCA color sets were pretty sturdy. Hopefully it will power up fine, but its weaknesses will be the flyback and those 2 discs in front of the audio output (it's early morning here and my brain is in a fog, I forget what they're called) but they're for the degaus circuit. I forgot about the solid-state audio. I wonder why RCA didn't continue using it in their tube chasssis. I know the CTC-38 and CTC39 (the last tube chassis) didn't use it? So when you power it up look for smoke on the left and right of the chassis. I bet Doug (DRH) has those missing knobs you need, and he could probably help you out on any tech stuff as he seems pretty with it on the RCA's. Anyway.... good score! I'm going to guess 1967 for the year, as my old CTC-31 was 1968. You can look at the code date on the picture tube. It's a 4 digit number and it will be the first 2 digits. (example 67-21 would be 1967) It will be I think under the pix tube type label. Good luck!

[drh4683]

cory, cool set! It looks very much like a ctc25. That big heatsink for the A-output gives it away. Check that purple colored stamp on the back of the chassis. JS is right on those discs. Called thermistors, they conduct when they are cool and stop conducting when they get hot, which is why the leads start to come off. You will noticed the pcb diccolored around it too. If the leads break off, which is so very common, or atleast looking like they are starting to separate, you can just solder them back on and they are good as new.
Anyways,
Let me know your model number, I can check my parts manuals. I think I might have some knobs lying around. If not, moyer has lots of good stuff for those sets still I just bought some from them not too long ago for my ctc38.

[kc8adu]

yup ctc 25
open the cage and look at the top of the fly at the rectifier plate connection.i always peel the rubber off the tire and coat with silicone to prevent the damage you may see .
they like to arc down from the plate socket to the core.

[Cory]

Thanks for the info guys. I actually bit the bullet and plugged the set in. Aside from some dirty contacts and basic adjustments the set fired right up in living color

Drh, please let me know if you've got a spare tuner knob, the set seems complete other than that!

[drh4683]

hi cory,

Check out the back and see if the model number sticker is still there. If so, let me know and I'll see what Ive got. The ctc25 used a 4 sided tuner knob, but thats from only what ive seen in the past other sets ive worked on. If I dont got it, ill call moyer.

Doug

[Cory]

Hey Doug,

Looks like it's model GH 720 L. Any luck?

Cory

[captainmoody]

I gave Doug a set of knobs to give you for that set as I junked one out a couple of months ago.
Pm him with your address.