Scored!

[Kamakiri]

This set is a Model Q5528WA, chassis no 17MT803. On top of the flyback cage is 3 44 67 (I assume this is a '67 model?). Any other dates I should look for?

I assumed that's what the smell was....I'm used to the hot dusty smell of an old TV strored for years, but this was almost acrid. Ran it for an hour today and the smell is gone, so I'm not gonna worry about it.

Upon testing, the picture tube showed dead, but after letting the filaments cook at 8.3v for about 15 minutes, it came back about 1/3 of the way into the green. Think I might let it bake a little more tonight and see what happens.

[Charlie]

Here are some convergence instructions... perhaps they will help you. You'll first need to start out making the adjustments on the neck of the crt, then follow these. hope it's helpful.

[Kamakiri]

If only I had a crosshatch generator.....

Can someone make a videotape of one for me?

[Charlie]

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[Charlie]

Keep in mind that you will probably need to repeat the steps a couple of times. even if you dont have a crosshatch, you should be able to get some improvement as long as you have a still image to work with.

Also, if your picture looks dim, doing a convergence job might help brighten it a little since the beams will now be pointing in the right places. Seems I remember a good bit of difference in the brightness of one of my sets after performing a convergence tune up.

[andy]

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[Eric H]

Yes, that's right, March 44th 1967 or more likely the 44th week of 1967 which would probably actually be a 68 model ?

The acrid smell was probably Mouse pee burning off

Originally posted by Kamakiri
On top of the flyback cage is 3 44 67 (I assume this is a '67 model?).

I assumed that's what the smell was....I'm used to the hot dusty smell of an old TV strored for years, but this was almost acrid. Ran it for an hour today and the smell is gone, so I'm not gonna worry about it.

Upon testing, the picture tube showed dead, but after letting the filaments cook at 8.3v for about 15 minutes, it came back about 1/3 of the way into the green. Think I might let it bake a little more tonight and see what happens.

[Charlie]

My philco had date codes on the rear cover of the yoke... seems I remember they were from 68. The original Philco tubes had 68 date codes, and seems I remember dates on the degaussing coil assembly.

Other than the UHF tuner, is the set all tubes?

[Kamakiri]

It is all tubes, although I didn't count them....doesn't seem like there are that many.....I'll take a chassis shot when I get to this next step

I bought an RCA WR64B dot/bar/crosshatch generator off eBay, but much to my surprise, it has clips for each color gun rather than going into the antenna, and a thicker gray bare wire. Have to figure out how to use this thing, is anyone familiar with this unit?

[Steve K]

I use that same model RCA color bar generator. I never use the individual gun controls however. The gray wire sounds like the one that should go to the antenna terminals. I believe it is a shielded wire. There should be a small resistor network (using 120 ohm resistors if I remember correctly) at the end with three wire clips coming out of it, two for the antenna and one for chassis ground. I can send you a photocopy of the manual and schematic if someone else doesn't post with the info before I get home tonight.

Steve

[andy]

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[Steve D.]

Hey Tim,
Nice find. I have this same model in amost mint condition. And Steve K. is 100% correct. The wires with the red clips go to the antenna terminals and the black insulator cable clips on to the chassis as ground. I also have the eariler model WR-64A which doesn't have the seprate color clips. However, this unit, which I bought off of e-bay is totally mint in the original RCA box. It has the manual, warrenty card and has never been used. Even the cable bracket, unattached is wrapped in its original
paper. The unit will perform well but may not be as stable as newer solid state models.

Heathkit offered color bar/pattern generators....you see them on eBay all the time.

Anthony

[Kamakiri]

Thanks for all the advice and help guys

I paid a whopping $5 plus shipping for this unit from eBay, and got this WR70 thrown in for $3

[Steve K]

Here is the schematic for the leads that go to the antenna terminals. The resistor network was housed in a small plastic housing with three clip wires coming out of one end. The wire in the schematic that goes to the top is just the one that clips onto the chassis.

Steve