Broken front glass of GE locomotive style TV

[Phil Nelson]

I second the vote for trying Plexiglas (aka arcylic, Lucite, etc.). Cheap, and easy to work with hand tools, unlike glass.

Or if you're feeling lazy, there are plastics outfits that can make basically anything you want. There is a Tap Plastics store about 10 miles from my house, for example ( http://www.tapplastics.com/ ).

Phil

[yagosaga]

Hi to all,

thank you for your numerous replies. I will speak with the glazier, and next, I will try to find somebody, who makes plastics outfits. This might be the best way.

The GE tv set was OK before shipping, but it might be damaged on the way to Germany. Nevertheless, it is a very nice looking tv set.

Kind regards,
Eckhard

[Reece]

I think once you have new glass, cut some pieces of tubing to the proper length to makes stops that slip over the knob bolts for the two fixing knobs at the top of the glass, and put felt washers under the knobs. Adjust the length of the tubing so that the knobs can be tightened just enough but not overtightend.

Reece

[Tony V]

Hi Cliff,
If no one else speaks up, i would like to have the cabinet and glass. Just let me know.
Thanks,
Tony

[Kiwick]

I think you can't just use regular glass or plexiglass here for safety reasons as they're too weak to contain an implosion, you'll need laminated glass.

[jeyurkon]

Originally Posted by Kiwick

I think you can't just use regular glass or plexiglass here for safety reasons as they're too weak to contain an implosion, you'll need laminated glass.

Good point. How about Lexan®? It should be pretty tough.

John Y.

[Dave S]

Originally Posted by Kiwick

I think you can't just use regular glass or plexiglass here for safety reasons as they're too weak to contain an implosion, you'll need laminated glass.

I'm all in favor of being safe - and of not having my face cut to ribbons by shards of flying glass - but I suspect you may be overestimating the force of an implosion. Also not a very likely occurrence. I'm going to guess that although safety glass or lexan would be the best choice, nearly any old piece of glass would likely contain the debris from an implosion of a 10" tube. This would be a good project for "Mythbusters" (or an adventurous AK person who likes to blow stuff up) to test out!

--Dave

[jeyurkon]

Originally Posted by Dave S

I'm all in favor of being safe - and of not having my face cut to ribbons by shards of flying glass - but I suspect you may be overestimating the force of an implosion. Also not a very likely occurrence. I'm going to guess that although safety glass or lexan would be the best choice, nearly any old piece of glass would likely contain the debris from an implosion of a 10" tube. This would be a good project for "Mythbusters" (or an adventurous AK person who likes to blow stuff up) to test out!

--Dave

Neither of the two that myself and a friend tried to implode in our youth were very interesting. Some of the stories must be exaggerated.

It would be interesting for Mythbusters. Hopefully they would be CRTs that Hawkeye wouldn't accept for rebuild.

Here's some anecdotal info.

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/crtfaq.htm#crtcir

John Y.

[Kiwick]

Originally Posted by Dave S

I'm all in favor of being safe - and of not having my face cut to ribbons by shards of flying glass - but I suspect you may be overestimating the force of an implosion. Also not a very likely occurrence. I'm going to guess that although safety glass or lexan would be the best choice, nearly any old piece of glass would likely contain the debris from an implosion of a 10" tube. This would be a good project for "Mythbusters" (or an adventurous AK person who likes to blow stuff up) to test out!

--Dave

Each implosion is a story of its own, sometimes all the glass will just be sucked into a heap inside the set but but sometimes it's ejected with extreme violence and in the worst case scenario the neck/electron gun assembly will be propelled towards the screen at very high speeds and if this happens you need something really tough to stop it.

Keep in mind that plain glass may be smashed by the implosion's shockwave even before the glass shards start to scatter outward

also, some early B/W CRTs are made of thin, weak glass and are prone to spontaneous implosion.

[yagosaga]

Hello,

in the last days, I have picked the GE 806 tv set which was waiting for repair since months.

In the mains unit, one 5 Ohm resistor before the rectifiers was burned, I replaced it. The 19BG6 was also weak, I replaced it. One wax capacitor was leaky, I unsoldered one end and added a new one. After that, I reformed the electrolytics and switchet the set on. It showed a dim raster. Sound it working well.

The original 10BP4 was very weak and came with a brightener. I have rejuvenated the CRT and removed the brightener. Currently I am working with the bad picture tube, but when works are done, I want to replace it. I have got a good 10BP4 (0.4 ma) and a good 10FP4 (0.9 ma). Which picure tube might be the better selection for replacing?

Kind regards,
Eckhard

[bgadow]

At about the time GE was making this set, Philco, Admiral and others were using plastic. Consider that if you were to pick up a 10BP4 and try to throw it through a sheet of plexiglass I really don't know if you could do it. I had to replace the one on a '50 Philco as some chemical had left spots etched in it. A replacement from the glass company (some sort of plexiglass, or whatever they sell) was cheap and easy to obtain. I suspect that plain window glass wouldn't really be safe but thicker or laminated glass should be fine.

John, that site you link to is quite impressive!

[mbates14]

I would use plexi with a printed vinyl emblem behind it. that way if the plastic gets scratched or damaged, its easily replacable.

[bandersen]

I'm pretty sure the original used a 10FP4 so I would go with that. It's a lot brighter too

[yagosaga]

Thanks for this advice. But before I will do it, I have to fix the low-contrast problem. The picture remains very dim no matter what the contrast control is set.

[yagosaga]

Hello,

meanwhile I have replaced the weak CRT by a 10FP4. The 10FP4 is really a lot brighter and shows an excellent picture.

The bad contrast depended on a dried electrolytic 10 uF capacitor in the video amplifier section. Vertical does not properly locked in. But this is a fault which I have to check with the scope.

Kind regards,
Eckhard