Warm TV

[lnx64]

Well, there's a couple point to point wires on the bottom of the PCB. Here's a picture I took several months ago when I first got this TV.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...d/IMG_0394.jpg

Two wires, black and orange. I don't know if these could be causing it.

[ctc17]

I have the sams here for a 20K20 chassis the parts layout says 20K20 and its not too likely that would cross to a samsung and the board looks like yours from the parts layout if it wasnt it. This is from 1994 and uses an electronic tuner.

Its possible they used the main board for years with different accessories.

Anyway, in this set the power switch is 100% so nothing is on when the set is off.

I can scan this if you wanna look.

If you want to get me the exact model number and date it was made I can maybe find the exact sams.

[kx250rider]

Are there 4 wires to the ON/OFF switch? If so, you cut in a standby supply to the CRT when the main is cut off. Sony and Toshiba, along with most of the Korean sets did that in the 70s-80s, and many others did too. That's my guess, and a quick look at the schematic would tell all.

Charles

[lnx64]

Just double checked, it only has two wires. Inside is this however, stamped on the side. Doesn't reveal too much though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/tvlayout.jpg

I did notice an extra transformer near the flyback though.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by lnx64

Just double checked, it only has two wires. Inside is this however, stamped on the side. Doesn't reveal too much though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/tvlayout.jpg

I did notice an extra transformer near the flyback though.

The small transformer near the flyback is the horizontal driver transformer.
Looks like a mouse was in there nibbling on the labels.

[lnx64]

Hmm ok.

T601, in the audio circuit, gives me good hopes for being able to install a small headphone socket on the side of the TV. I'd assume the transformer is isolating the speaker from the rest of the circuit, so headphones would be safe.

[rpm1200]

Ever get to the bottom of this? Did you try putting it on the kill-a-watt and see if it's drawing any power when off?

[lnx64]

Yea, oddly a killawatt is reading 0 watt draw. So I don't know how acurrate those things are when it comes down to low wattage readings. Because it fluctuates between .3 and 0 watts. I'm sure those filaments draw more than that.

[AiboPet]

I use those to work on even little netbook computers....so if your particular Kill-A-Watt unit is working, they are good down to pretty small loads.

[Ed in Tx]

Originally Posted by AiboPet

I use those to work on even little netbook computers....so if your particular Kill-A-Watt unit is working, they are good down to pretty small loads.

What is the smallest load yours will display?

[AiboPet]

I don't have it here at work with me today, but I've seen single watt numbers in some netbooks in "sleep" mode. I don't recall if I have ever seen less than one watt...but know for sure I've seen down to one, as the little ASUS 900HA netbook "sleeps" at around 1.5W. I do know it will register ZERO watts....just can't recall if I have seen "500mw" or " .5 " before.

If you are seeing anything less than 5-10 watts.....you are not generating any noticeable heat, nevermind enough to actually warm the top of the set. I know the little wattage display on my APC ups I have on my "entertainment" center in the front room shows 18 watts at "off"....but that damn Cox cable box DOES seem to ALWAYS be warm whether off or on. I'm getting that "18w" display on the APC with the Samsung 55" on standby...cable box on (or off...no difference)...and my little Archos AV700 playing into the little HLLY transmitter (those two run 24/7).

So actually.....I don't know what to believe sometimes, but the Kill-A-Watt always seems to give me a much more believable number (I should put the Kill-A-Watt after the ups someday and see)

I'm not sure if the UPS is also showing me what it's OWN circuitry is drawing as well...but I suspect it's just the load to it's sockets in back. It will go to zero if nothing is plugged into it...and will go back and forth between 2 and 3 watts if I unplug JUST the Scientific Atlanta HD box (and THAT thing gets pretty warm!)

[lnx64]

Well here's what I've noticed since. No, there hasn't been any more heat noticed. But, the filaments in the CRT do continue to glow after power off. Could they draw 0.5 watts and still have a noticeable glow?

I don't know why I felt it warm before. It was warm, but I just don't know why.

[jr_tech]

My K-A-W model P4460 will not indicate the power of a single 4 watt night light bulb, but if I turn on 2 of them, it indicates the correct 8 watts.

jr

[Ed in Tx]

Originally Posted by jr_tech

My K-A-W model P4460 will not indicate the power of a single 4 watt night light bulb, but if I turn on 2 of them, it indicates the correct 8 watts.

jr

Yep I have a 4460 and about 5-6 Watts is the lowest it measures before it goes blank. Not much good for checking low standby power.

[AiboPet]

Just tried real quick my KAW P4400

Running the wall wart for the Panasonic TR-1020 (REAL little TV)...the thing draws 2.3w charging it's internal battery...and climbs to 5.4w when I turn the little 1020 on.

So I guess it does appear to measure to .1 watt increments.