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  #1  
Old 07-15-2016, 08:45 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I re-dressed and re-soldered on the plate cap clips for the 1B3GT and the 6BQ6GT tubes in the HV cage. I made sure there were sharp points. The reason I did this was the plate cap for the 6BQ6GT had fallen off. The wire strands were broken. The plate cap for the 1B3GT was hanging on by just a couple of strands.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-04-2016 at 12:40 AM.
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  #2  
Old 07-16-2016, 10:00 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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My E-Cap order came in so I finished up re-stuffing them. Each can holds 3 E-Caps. I used Nichicon slender caps where I can. Each can was able to hold the 3 caps next to each other. No stacking. I use hot glue to glue the 3 caps together with the negative leads close to each other. I then connect the negative leads together and use some solid 22awg 600V wire for the leads. I attached them using the coil method. I then form each lead to make up a bundle coming out from the approx. center. This bundle is laced tied to give it some extra strength. The leads are trimmed and stripped before I insert the caps into the sleeve.

A generous bead of hot glue is placed around the bundle then it is inserted through a 5/32 hole drilled in the bottom. The assembly is held in place till the hot glue sets up. Then the caps are tacked to the wall of the plastic sleeve. The leads are soldered to the contacts. The ground lead is left unattached. It will be connected to the can after it is inserted into the chassis.

I place the cans back into the proper position into the chassis. I then solder the "twist" tabs to the chassis. I'm afraid that they will break off if I twist them. Then the ground lead is attached to one of the tabs soldered to the chassis.

When all done, I'll slide the cans over each assembly to finish off the chassis.












Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 04:25 PM.
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  #3  
Old 07-17-2016, 11:17 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I got some more done on the chassis recapping.

I changed out the cap "C46" and resistor "R62"on the "Contrast" and "Horizontal Hold" control.

I then began recapping and rewiring the fuse and selenium rectifier. I'm using a terminal strip for each. I'm using pigtail fuses. For the rectifier, I'll wire the original selenium in then get some voltage measurements, then change it out for a 1N4007 diode. Then I'll adjust the existing 22 ohm resistor "R77" to match the correct voltage needed.

I'm needing my .2uf 630v caps from Just Radios to really get into recapping. The caps are "layered" and I'm not going to do much till I have all the caps on hand. There is some that I can do though. Just a limited amount.

I also changed out another cap "C54" and one of the heat stressed resistors "R77".










Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 07-22-2016, 10:44 PM
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MIPS MIPS is offline
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Have you verified that everything in the Horizontal hold circuit is good?
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Old 07-22-2016, 10:49 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Could you be more specific as to what you mean by good? I replaced all the caps and resistors in the circuit. I have will go back and check to see if I made a mistake replacing those caps and resistors.
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Old 07-23-2016, 01:35 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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My friend emailed and said to turn the H. Frequency adjustment CCW. It has a wide range. Bingo.

I'll have to put in the 16KP4 tube next to see what it'll really look like.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 07-23-2016, 08:02 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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This morning I removed the focus coil off the test CRT. Much better. I'll do some voltage checks and replace the selenium rectifier today. The picture is actually much better in person than the photo.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 07-23-2016, 09:41 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Getting better. Here is small clip from White Christmas. With the 16" CRT.

https://youtu.be/5KVM0_c8l4Q
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  #9  
Old 07-24-2016, 07:16 AM
consoleguy67 consoleguy67 is offline
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Wow, top notch work!!
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  #10  
Old 07-25-2016, 11:51 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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OK, I aligned the video and sound IF using my signal generator and VTVM. I have a good picture and great audio.

I do have some little white bars that go across the top of the screen. See attached picture. Any ideas?


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 10:58 PM.
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  #11  
Old 07-25-2016, 12:30 PM
MRX37 MRX37 is offline
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Those white lines are very likely from your video source.
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  #12  
Old 07-25-2016, 01:51 PM
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They are either closed captioning (which lurks at the extreme top of the frame), or macrovision copy protection (which usually droops down lower).

If you have Cable/Satellite you should watch the AMC channel on your AMC TV set at least once.
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2016, 05:49 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Still looking for some information about hooking up a frequency meter to measure the Horizontal Frequency of 15750 cps. Has anybody done this?

Thanks.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:03 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I've got the test pattern looking pretty good. There is a "ghost like" squiggle on the right side. I haven't played a DVD yet but I will.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 11:00 PM.
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  #15  
Old 07-25-2016, 08:36 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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That squiggle looks like a bit of H. retrace. See if it'll go away by reducing the brightness a bit.

Linearity that good (both H and V) is seldom seen on a vintage set. The quality of your resto would do a seasoned techie proud.
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