Attempting first project - Some questions if I may

[old_tv_nut]

Caution: the color is NOT yellow, it is orange.
Your camera flash and slight overexposure have turned orange yellowish.

It must be orange because orange orange brown silver is a standard value:
330 ohms 10% tolerance.
Yellow yellow brown silver would be 440 ohms 10%, which is not at all a standard value.

Resistors cannot be substituted with any higher resistance value. The substitute should be within the tolerance specified by the 4th band. For example, you could use 330 ohm 5% in place of 330 ohm 10%.

A resistor of a higher wattage may be substituted, that is you could replace a half watt by a one watt of the same resistance and tolerance.

[old_tv_nut]

standard values:
https://ecee.colorado.edu/~mcclurel/...orsandcaps.pdf

[albanks]

thanks everyone!!

PS, just checked schematic, old tv nut was correct.

[old_tv_nut]

^^^ Yes. Before assuming it's the on-off switch, try holding the chassis steady so the set is on and flex the power cord to see if that's the problem. If it's not the cord/connection then proceed to check / bypass the on-off switch.

[albanks]

The problem is in the power cord/safety interlock. I can tilt tv to the right nothing happens, tilt to the left it shuts off. Wiggle cord it goes on or off. Anyone feeling generous enough to provide lay person instructions to fix this? It would be nice to get this set back on playing Columbo again.

[Electronic M]

With the set unplugged you can also chase that power wiring problem with a DMM....If you have a DMM with beep mode on continuity and aligator clip leads you can hook it across a suspected intermitent wire/connection/switch/etc. and flex said suspected part and look for the beep of life to stop.

[Electronic M]

Since you posted while I was writing more info: If you have a spare cord you can try swapping it. You can also do a continuity check on the cord with a DMM. It is possible the cord is fine and the interlock bad, but cord problems are more common. If either cord or interlock is bad you will have to get a replacement for what is bad. There are ways to kludge normal cords on and defeat the interlock, but that is a really crappy way to do it (something to do only as a temporary solution while you hunt the right parts).

[albanks]

Thanks guys. OK, definitely not the cord, tried a few different ones. I don't understand what's happening when I lift the set up and down to make it go on and off. I will have to keep searching.

[Popester]

You might have a cold solder joint somewhere on the chassis. You could with a magnifier have a look at solder connections and look for really small cracks at any connection points. You are probably making connection when turning. You could also look at the solder connections on the switch itself and see if they look alright.

[zeno]

The on/off switch on these just have 2 wires going to the rear
of the on/off/vc you can hook the two wires together & prove
the switch good or bad.

Now look at how the main chassis is built. Terminal strips soldered
onto the steel chassis.
The ends are soldered, sometimes they are soldered along the strip &
and at most tube sockets.
Those are used as common ground often. They do loosen up
especially on certain chassis & cause int problems. This chassis wasnt
known for it BUT it can happen. If you probe at them with a screw driver
& they show a break resolder them.

BTW this set has a simple SPST switch. Many others had gang switches
with as many as 4 switches & 2 pots. Maggy & Admiral come to mind.
Sometimes the switches were NO & NC. "Jumping" them out can
get much more complex.

73 Zeno

[albanks]

Thanks everyone for the help. Well, guys I don't know what to say. I tried everything. I was most excited about the cold solder joint theory as my soldering is sloppy and it made the most sense. It almost paid off, but then it didn't. I might just put this set on the backburner until I can meet some people who can help me in real life. For now, the '65 is more promising to work on.

[Electronic M]

Have you tried using a good 90s or newer set to check your signal source?

[albanks]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Have you tried using a good 90s or newer set to check your signal source?

Yes I did and everything was fine with it.

[Electronic M]

Glad you got it fixed.

One thing I have found very beneficial is to have a BIG 75W or higher soldering IRON. Getting any chassis ground or especially large solder joint to melt and flow with a smaller iron is at best very slow and often doesn't give good joints. You can make a small iron work (God knows I did for more than a decade) but once you have a big one at your disposal you'll want it for everything but some of the tighter/finer work.

[albanks]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Glad you got it fixed.

One thing I have found very beneficial is to have a BIG 75W or higher soldering IRON. Getting any chassis ground or especially large solder joint to melt and flow with a smaller iron is at best very slow and often doesn't give good joints. You can make a small iron work (God knows I did for more than a decade) but once you have a big one at your disposal you'll want it for everything but some of the tighter/finer work.

That's good advice because I have a small dinky iron from Harbor Freight.