My CTC-16XL Project.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by freakaftr8

That test pattern looks good! That's with injected IF?

yes, at the 1st video amp, i lifted up one end of L9 and am feeding in directly in.

I did have to build a video amp, cause composite video is about 1.1 v ptp, and the CTC-16/X wants 3.5 there.

[Yamamaya42]

I have always wondered about C70, the ugly white elmenco .001 (2kv) paper cap under the chassis hooked to the plate of Vert output, as of now, mine is still the OEM, as it has not given me any problems... YET...
I'm thinking when I have things apart to fix the IF, to go ahead a change it, but with what, as far as I can tell, as long as it's .001 and 2k (or more ) it should be fine.
So I was thinking of using Mouser # 594-S102K33Y5PP63K5R

[Electronic M]

I'd replace the elmenco with this https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...8ztgyl3M9nM%3D

The elmenco tubular ceramic shell caps are actually paper dielectric caps so they should be replaced with film caps.

Ceramic dielectric caps should never be used in a TV unless the original part was a ceramic dielectric cap. Original ceramic dielectric caps are easy to identify, they are either flat discs with 2 leads exiting the edge or they are thin ceramic tubes that never have a capacitance higher than 200pF...

It is usually best to assume in any tube TV that any cap 1000pF (=.001uF) and up is paper unless it is flat disc ceramic or a later film type such as a Sprague orange drop.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I'd replace the elmenco with this https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...8ztgyl3M9nM%3D

The elmenco tubular ceramic shell caps are actually paper dielectric caps so they should be replaced with film caps.

Ceramic dielectric caps should never be used in a TV unless the original part was a ceramic dielectric cap. Original ceramic dielectric caps are easy to identify, they are either flat discs with 2 leads exiting the edge or they are thin ceramic tubes that never have a capacitance higher than 200pF...

It is usually best to assume in any tube TV that any cap 1000pF (=.001uF) and up is paper unless it is flat disc ceramic or a later film type such as a Sprague orange drop.

should prob get this one then,
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...F3O1VdC5JV4%3D

as the other one is not stocked and takes a long time to get.

I was looking at the disc-types for a replacement, cause there there were very few film types in stock that met the need, there were more choices in disc, but If it must be film to replace paper, then the choice is clear.

[Electronic M]

You can also go cheap and use a wima brand... I've used their 6kv parts for replacement of the 6kv paper caps used in early post-war electrostatic deflection sets with success. Their lower voltage parts are probably just as good.

Sorry for the non-stocked link. Navigating mouser on a smartphone is deep in fish out of water territory for me.

[Yamamaya42]

Whole bunch a .001 caps ordered for the IF, + ugly one on the bottom, also have the 4 new caps coming for the convergence PCB, & the diode, also ordered this to swap out the 47k res on the plate of the horz blanking amp, (652-93A1A-B28-A20L ) to try to get a little better output from it.

[Yamamaya42]

https://imgur.com/Txm8oBx

back on the workbench to fix the IF fail.

2 hours later...

https://imgur.com/4aAYWzG

IF is alive again!


Still gotta change that ugly cap on the bottom and try to get the retrace to work better, and replace some parts in the convergence PCB,

but that's enough for 1 night!

[Electronic M]

Good work.

You may be coming to appreciate one of the charms/curses of owning a tube color TV....If you use it regularly like it would have been new then it will always need some service work within 6-24 months of its last bench time. Whether it is a charm or a curse depends on how much you like working on it...

[dtvmcdonald]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Good work.

You may be coming to appreciate one of the charms/curses of owning a tube color TV....If you use it regularly like it would have been new then it will always need some service work within 6-24 months of its last bench time. Whether it is a charm or a curse depends on how much you like working on it...

Its a curse. Any rare or valuable TV is very stressful to work on. My blood pressure rises from 120/75 to 148/95 until its fixed. This is by actual measurement. This does not usually happen on radios, though it did happen once when I discovered that the RA17C12 I bought had had all the paper and electrolytic caps already cut out, and the harness cut. This of course ruins my
usual method of avoiding a miswired new cap. [Addendum: well, not ALL of them ... the hard to get at ones were still there.]

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald

Its a curse. Any rare or valuable TV is very stressful to work on. My blood pressure rises from 120/75 to 148/95 until its fixed. This is by actual measurement. This does not usually happen on radios, though it did happen once when I discovered that the RA17C12 I bought had had all the paper and electrolytic caps already cut out, and the harness cut. This of course ruins my
usual method of avoiding a miswired new cap. [Addendum: well, not ALL of them ... the hard to get at ones were still there.]

It only stresses me if 1.) it drops me down to 1 or less working sets in a main viewing room, 2.) if I'm in the middle handling something super-delicate like reattaching a hair-thin coil lead, or 3.) I have a couple of sets disassembled/mid resto that I gotta finish and or reassemble fast to reorganize for something (which I'm sorta dealing with now).
If I let it bug me that bad the number of such sets I have now would raise my blood pressure high enough for my head to shoot off.


Strange that that panasonic cap didn't work...Did you check resistance across it? maybe you got a shorted factory dud or something.

[Yamamaya42]

it did NOT like this cap as a replacement for c70 :O 667-ECW-H20102RHV


put it in ans lost all vert sweep. put the original elmenco back in, and it worked again , weird...

[Yamamaya42]

I'm not sure why it did not work T_T

I just know that after I hauled the chassis downstairs, hooked it all up and bolted down ( mistake ) I had I nice bright horz line, till I pulled it out again and stuck the old cap back in. :/

I do not see a short across it, but I don't have a real cap tester here, but have one at work, but it wont test leakage. :/

https://imgur.com/uk0D1qD

It's working OK now, still has IF alignment problems, which has to be fixed sometime I ever get my hands on a sweep generator, this also affects audio slightly ( buzz)

I will attempt to replace the caps/ diodes on the convergence PCB later in the week, which is the reason i have not put it all back together yet and back in place.

[Yamamaya42]

Worked with convergence PCB a bit last night, new diodes had very little / no effect, still can't get R/G at the top as good as left/ right/ bottom, ( perhaps never will, IDK ).
Moving the conv, yolk forward/ back a bit did not help much.
Have NOT tried the new caps in it yet, will try tonight to see if it changes anything.
The biggest problem I see is the R/G horz top lines are not linear, red above green in one side, and then green above red in the other, this is not seen anyplace else, the R/G can ALMOST be lined up, but is slightly still off.

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

Worked with convergence PCB a bit last night, new diodes had very little / no effect, still can't get R/G at the top as good as left/ right/ bottom, ( perhaps never will, IDK ).

Moving the conv, yolk forward/ back a bit did not help much.

For the heck of it, check where all the wires connect to the conv. yoke coils. There was a similar problem one time, caused by one of those wires being broke right at the connection point.

[Yamamaya42]

caps replaced, Resistors ( normal not adjustable seem OK )
only slightly better.
https://imgur.com/Qs1PUZS
https://imgur.com/jtYPypZ
https://imgur.com/rcdsYk4

aside from replacing potentiometers, there is not much more that can be done,

It's pretty close for such an old set.