My CTC-16XL Project.

[old_tv_nut]

Is the R/G vertical left potentiometer at one end of its range?

If so, have you tried setting the R/G vertical left potentiometer to center, then adjusting the R/G vertical right coil, then readjusting the R/G vertical left potentiometer?

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

Is the R/G vertical left potentiometer at one end of its range?

If so, have you tried setting the R/G vertical left potentiometer to center, then adjusting the R/G vertical right coil, then readjusting the R/G vertical left potentiometer?

the only one at the end of range is r27 R-G vert lines top ( not replaced ) X6 r270 new
adjusting will NOT get it in range
R26 does work on the bottom.

all other adjustments seems to have normal range

[old_tv_nut]

Have you checked C4 and R106, that couple the vertical waveform from the cathode of the vertical output?

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

Have you checked C4 and R106, that couple the vertical waveform from the cathode of the vertical output?

I replaced C4 a long time ago, when i replaced the majority of the electrolytics, r106 is still original. that may be it


edit--

yeah, and the damn thing would have to be hidden under the chassis

not going to be changing any time soon, don't wanna pull it out a 3rd time in 1 week.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

I replaced C4 a long time ago, when i replaced the majority of the electrolytics, r106 is still original. that may be it


edit--

yeah, and the damn thing would have to be hidden under the chassis

not going to be changing any time soon, don't wanna pull it out a 3rd time in 1 week.

I remember when I started restoring color sets with my CTC15 and hit the troubleshooting stage that 3 chassis pulls in a day was a low number.... Tip: there are a couple of screws or holes for them on either side of the power cord interlock , and there should be a matching set of half circles on the tuner/control subchassis. They are for bolting the subchassis to the main chassis to make pulling and installing the chassis for short tests easier.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I remember when I started restoring color sets with my CTC15 and hit the troubleshooting stage that 3 chassis pulls in a day was a low number.... Tip: there are a couple of screws or holes for them on either side of the power cord interlock , and there should be a matching set of half circles on the tuner/control subchassis. They are for bolting the subchassis to the main chassis to make pulling and installing the chassis for short tests easier.

https://imgur.com/Txm8oBx

If you look closely at it when I had it on the bench last week, I had the tuner there while I was working on it, till I removed it to hook up the bar-dot input.
Nevermind that I like to add new parts ( caps & such ) with silicone :p as long as it can't be seen from above!

New r106 & c4 ordered , replacing c4 again, as it was not EXACTLY @ 50 uf, but a bit higher, that may or may not also be an issue, this time, getting precisely what it says on SAMs is a replacement , 75-TVA1414-E3.

In no big rush to replace them, so using ultra cheap shipping from Mouser, $3.30 vs $7.50, meaning rather than get it tomorrow, it will be here Sat.
Will stick the back on it for now and wait for another weekend to put them in.

Which does bring up a un-related topic, the 2 metal clips for the back have been missing since forever, what can be used in their place?

[freakaftr8]

Somehow I always get lucky with convergence on these old sets. Never had to get into the convergence board. Knock on wood. My CTC16 seemed to converge well with your same oddball issue. R27 r/g vertical top is almost at the end of its range but able to achieve good convergence.

[Yamamaya42]

The resistor info for the resistor off the vert out cathode is a bit confusing.
The SAMs schematic shows r106 to be 5.6k 3w, with alt parts of irc resistor pw5-6000 6k 5 watts, & workman 3g-5600 ( 5.6k 3w)

The CTC-16 (not x) shows it to be 5w.
both have the same RCA part # for the resistor, 104180.
But the SAMs for the XL clearly shows 3w, and lists a part # shown on others listed as 5w, so what is in it? Does it not matter?


edit---
https://imgur.com/UbSRwgB
what i find so confusing
r106 vs 105 16xl- 16
same location on schematic, shows same RCA part number, why is one 5w and one 3w

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

The resistor info for the resistor off the vert out cathode is a bit confusing.
The SAMs schematic shows r106 to be 5.6k 3w, with alt parts of irc resistor pw5-6000 6k 5 watts, & workman 3g-5600 ( 5.6k 3w)

The CTC-16 (not x) shows it to be 5w.
both have the same RCA part # for the resistor, 104180.
But the SAMs for the XL clearly shows 3w, and lists a part # shown on others listed as 5w, so what is in it? Does it not matter?


edit---
https://imgur.com/UbSRwgB
what i find so confusing
r106 vs 105 16xl- 16
same location on schematic, shows same RCA part number, why is one 5w and one 3w

If you can't spec the same wattage resistor always go up in wattage not down...they probably did that.

Also when replacing a high watt power resistor that tends to get hot in a restoration scenario it may be better to choose a higher wattage part than original as that will make the replacement run cooler.

[Tomcomm]

If you can't spec the same wattage resistor always go up in wattage not down...they probably did that.

Also when replacing a high watt power resistor that tends to get hot in a restoration scenario it may be better to choose a higher wattage part than original as that will make the replacement run cooler.

[tubesrule]

How does using a larger wattage resistor make it run cooler when the exact same wattage will be dissipated in it based on the usage? Other than the larger wattage resistor may or may not have slightly more surface area (unless you are changing to a chassis/heatsink mounted type or greatly increasing the physical size), it will run at the same temperature. The thermal resistance in free air will not be that much different and that, along with the watts dissipated is what determines the temperature.

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by tubesrule

How does using a larger wattage resistor make it run cooler when the exact same wattage will be dissipated in it based on the usage?

For a given wattage being dissipated, x amount of heat is being dispensed thoughout the entire mass of the resistor. The greater the mass, the lower the temperature of a unit volume of that mass. Ergo, a larger mass runs cooler. Er, at least that's my hillbilly take on it.

[Yamamaya42]

i will most likely stick a 5w in there, no matter what is/was in there, i just find it weird that both the 16 and the 16XL show the same RCA part # in SAMS, but have different watt values, one would think the 3 watt one would have one RCA # and the 5watt, another, who knows what they were thinking 50+ years ago :O

[Yamamaya42]

I did not mean to start a huge fight T_T
I was just confused by seeing the same RCA# and dif watt values.

What i'd really like to know now is, where do you guys find all these vintage sets
I know i was was lucky to find my 16xl all those years ago and protect it.

but i really don't want to put the effort into the CTC-90 i have, it;s a weird model and solid state, but had a NEW CRT. if i could track down a CTC-17 (or something like) to play with, then i would find more interest for it.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

I did not mean to start a huge fight T_T
I was just confused by seeing the same RCA# and dif watt values.

What i'd really like to know now is, where do you guys find all these vintage sets
I know i was was lucky to find my 16xl all those years ago and protect it.

but i really don't want to put the effort into the CTC-90 i have, it;s a weird model and solid state, but had a NEW CRT. if i could track down a CTC-17 (or something like) to play with, then i would find more interest for it.

There are plenty of places online where vintage TVs are for sale, there are also collector clubs for radios (also the ETF) and some places like antique stores and thrift shops where chances of finding sets are good.
You also, depending on where you live, may have to be willing to drive sometimes hours or wait years if you want something specific that isn't super common...Large old population centers where there was money when the sets were new and where there (are at least pockets where there) hasn't been a lot of population churn or redevelopment/modernization are usually places where people can easily find vintage sets locally...Places like Chicago, Milwaukee, Detroit, the larger cities on the east coast, LA, etc. seem to always have enough available to start a decent small collection in a couple months. Places like deep rural Idaho you might not ever find anything if you limit your search to a 2 hour drive.
Some of my better finds I had to drive around 6 hours 1 way to get...And a good portion of my collection has come from driving from Milwaukee to Columbus Ohio 1-2 times a year for the ETF meet.

BTW: don't sweat the little arguement. That is relatively mild in the context of what all I've dealt with over the years here (and I only slightly bothers me)...While by and large the TV community is a bunch of extremely good folks (and thousands of times better mannered than some internet message communities) I have met some bad apples, who have lied, picked fights with me, intentionally grabbed sets I was on my way to buy, cheated me out of money for things, etc, etc...The most sought after stuff (Pre-WWII, some early post-war models ad pre-1960 color) can bring out the worst in people when for sale, and some folks can be or come across as just plain rude (I've made that mistake) when correcting others on details or recieving corrections on their details.