1950 Admiral 16" Set; Recapped... No Picture!!

[Electronic M]

Some sets made around the Korean war had changes to the tube line up and other weirdness to account for shortages. Check the base wiring of that tube against the schematic...if it matches that of the tube of the schematic but not the one in the set then the schematic is right, but if it is significantly different from the schematic it may be a production change not documented on the schematic you have.

Other weird things they did included using odd looking German resistors and or American made factory rejects where the marked value was wrong but the measured value was right...

[EdKozk2]

Please disregard what I said about the chassis your sets fuses are. It looks like you have the Admiral 21E1 chassis. It used a 6H6 in place of a 6AL5 some of the production runs.
Ed

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by EdKozk2

Please disregard what I said about the chassis your sets fuses are. It looks like you have the Admiral 21E1 chassis. It used a 6H6 for the some of the production runs.
Ed

Thanks for your input, good eye!
Actually there are two fuse holders, one was never used...
When I took the fuse out to check it, the holder broke and came out with it!
So , I used the spare fuse holder.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Some sets made around the Korean war had changes to the tube line up and other weirdness to account for shortages. Check the base wiring of that tube against the schematic...if it matches that of the tube of the schematic but not the one in the set then the schematic is right, but if it is significantly different from the schematic it may be a production change not documented on the schematic you have.

Other weird things they did included using odd looking German resistors and or American made factory rejects where the marked value was wrong but the measured value was right...

I remember seeing German Siemens resistors with the flat leads and Koaohn
Japanese resistors. Those are the dog-bone style. Also series-parallel combinations used. I saw it more in Admirals, than outer makes.

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I remember seeing German Siemens resistors with the flat leads and Koaohn
Japanese resistors. Those are the dog-bone style. Also series-parallel combinations used. I saw it more in Admirals, than outer makes.

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?

[EdKozk2]

Originally Posted by Magnavox300

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?

Half the value,( sum of resistance in parallel ) is O.K. Just be certain to maintain the sum of the wattages or better. E.I if you have two 2 watt resistors in parallel use a 4 or 5 watt.
Ed

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by Magnavox300

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?

Inu no hone ? :p

[kvflyer]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Some sets made around the Korean war had changes to the tube line up and other weirdness to account for shortages. Check the base wiring of that tube against the schematic...if it matches that of the tube of the schematic but not the one in the set then the schematic is right, but if it is significantly different from the schematic it may be a production change not documented on the schematic you have.

Other weird things they did included using odd looking German resistors and or American made factory rejects where the marked value was wrong but the measured value was right...

Originally Posted by Magnavox300

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?

I have an Admiral 26R12 that is identical to the one I had as a teenager. It has a rectangular all glass CRT. I restored it (even though it was working!) and during the restoration I found out from many of the members here and on the Antique Radio Forum that there was a component shortage possibly due to the Korean War Effort. I also found many paralleled resistors and thought that some idiot "Had been there".

So, what you are finding is OK; normal. I suspect that if the final value of the combination is correct, you can leave it. Heck, it is part of the set's history.

[bandersen]

You might also get something out of looking through my restoration of a similar Admiral set. http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269953

It also have some odd parts including a 6H6 tube.

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by bandersen

You might also get something out of looking through my restoration of a similar Admiral set. http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=269953

It also have some odd parts including a 6H6 tube.

Thanks, I actually did watch and enjoy a lot of your videos...and especially learned to be careful of the steel CRT when it's running and exposed! I would have never considered that a danger at all!

[Electronic M]

In the audio stages capacitance value is non-critical....you could probably install whichever value sounds better and the set won't care which that is.

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

In the audio stages capacitance value is non-critical....you could probably install whichever value sounds better and the set won't care which that is.

Perfect... that’s good to know, thanks!

[Magnavox300]

Okay, now that I replaced about 7 resistors, I get nothing on the screen again!
I looked over the values and locations many times...
I did remove some strange looking resistors, at least according to the schematic they're supposed to be resistors...
Maybe these are just those unusual types found in these sets because of the war?
Just want to be sure I didn't remove something I shouldn't have!

[Notimetolooz]

Do the color codes on the parts match the value on the schematic?
At least one of the parts in the bottom row look like it may be a coil.

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by Notimetolooz

Do the color codes on the parts match the value on the schematic?
At least one of the parts in the bottom row look like it may be a coil.

Yes, the color codes do match the schematics values, all except the 2 small brown resistors tied together, they only have one green stripe each, but are close to the schematics value when measured...

Also, the old wax capacitor shown was riveted in place, and I just figured I'd leave it and use it for support, as Yamamaya said... though I did cut it out of the circuit...